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Routes in Lakeside Crag

Babylon T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
China Dragon T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
China Dragon Right T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Flakes Walk in to a Bar TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lakeside Jam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Hungover You T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scramble-rama T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
So Far Away TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swift Premium T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,695 total · 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Start up Lakeside Jam, then after the first rest break right up the right-angling crack, a few hard moves lead to a pretty good rest in a hand jam with good feet.... Then, another couple of hard moves in a desperate thin hand crack lead to a jug and more moderate climbing to the cliff top....

Challenging crack climbing on nice rock with a nice setting by the pond.... Now, if we could do something about the bugs....

Location

Starting in the middle of the cliff on Lakeside Jam then breaking right....

Protection

Regular rack to #2 Camalot....

Photos

Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
  5.10a
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
  5.10a
Really good climbing with solid gear. A good choice for breaking into 5.10.

The last section near the top where the corner slabs out tends to be a bit dirty and insecure. It's easy to get sucked into continuing up this way, but once you are in the corner the arete up and slightly behind you has several jugs. Use these to pull out of the corner for a better finish. This is more exposed, but the climbing feels more solid IMO. Dec 1, 2013

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