Type: Trad, Sport, 165 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Kelly et al 1986
Page Views: 3,165 total · 22/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Apr 12, 2007
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

A great slabby route with some classic edges and a gorgeous view of Lake Lure. Wanders slightly, to keep things interesting.
P1- Climb direct (harder) or stem up a tree to a point at which you can step over to the wall. Pass 5 or 6 bolts and some small TCU placements. Cut directly left near the last two bolts and end at a rap anchor. 90', 5.10a/b.
P2- Climb straight up past two bolts. This pitch starts off steep and eases considerably. End at a rap anchor. 75', 5.10.

Location

A few bolts supplemented by a handful of TCUS.

Protection

Dead center of the Lakeview Wall. Look for the dead tree near the right side of a 15' ledge. Rap once with two ropes (165') or twice with a single.

Photos

The tree commonly stemmed to access the wall is ready to fall. Tried to use it yesterday (1-12-09) and it gave a loud crack before I even got high enough to reach the wall. My partner and I were able to easily sway the tree with one hand. If anyone is going out there, please be careful or bring a 20+ foot stick-clip. Jan 14, 2009
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
 
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
 
The tree is all gone. A shoulder stand from a partner will also do the trick...as I found out. Mar 9, 2009
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Start from the right is 5.11R and the left most tree will most likely break by trying to aid it. There is a big stick for the stick clip. Sep 26, 2009
nbrown
originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
nbrown   originally WNC, now Broomfield
 
It is quite reasonable to stem off of the smaller pine tree to the left to get started. It involoves an extra 5.10+ish move to gain the good holds, but the bolt is easily stick clipped if you're not up for the extra excitement. Nov 26, 2009
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
  5.10
Great climb, excellent position, and very well protected. I placed a red Metolius between bolts 2 and 3 on the first pitch. You could take TCUs from Orange down to Grey and probably place them all but there is no need... bolts do the job.

There are now TWO downed trees, and at least two more that will come down if people keep using them. I propose stick clipping the first bolt and trying to go direct or just aiding up to the first row of jugs. Killing trees is kinda dumb.

Using the right most start is most definitely NOT 5.11 but I will give you the R.

Dec 12, 2010
Joe Virtanen
Asheville, NC
Joe Virtanen   Asheville, NC
For some reason I had never slogged up the hill for this one, but it's worth it - even just for the views. Plenty of classic Rumbling Bald edging to be had on this route.

Exciting mantles after small runouts characterize the easier sections of this route and well-protected moves on tiny feet and crimps make up the harder bits. Dec 31, 2013
Dustin Stephens
  5.10 PG13
Dustin Stephens  
  5.10 PG13
Definitely one of the best slabs I've been on. A small to medium cam is good between bolts 2 and 3.. lots of options size-wise Mar 7, 2015
Lewis L
Asheville, NC
  5.10 PG13
Lewis L   Asheville, NC
  5.10 PG13
Great climb, but be careful. Second pitch is very gritty. The fire last fall burned up what ever green was holding the topsoil. Luckily, I had my bouldering brush in my chalk bag. Particularly spooky on the runout to the anchors - all the ledges were very sandy. Mar 23, 2018
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This climb has character. It felt very adventurous and had great climbing sequences. No need to panic about the beginning. The tree is solid enough to stem/step/use to gain the huge edges above the steep initial face. You can rather casually push off the tree if you are clever and confident (and sling the top of the stump for your first pro). From here you have a few easy moves to the extremely high first bolt. Just keep your cool like anything else. The bolt can't be reached from the belay with a stick clip, so I think what people are doing is stemming up the tree and then reaching down to grab the stick clip from their belayer. Then they are dangerously having to prepare the clip/rope on the stick, reach up with one leg stemming off a tree and the other balancing on the rock, and pre-clip the first bolt. This precarious move seems more dangerous than just flowing thru the stem and then climbing up the easy section to the bolt, just as the first ascensionist did. The first pitch is glorious, and tricky. The second pitch has what I thought was the hardest move. It's a long way to the first bolt on P2, but moving past this bolt is a crux and seemed very very heady to me. Then you have a bunch more moves before you find the second bolt. P2 was incredible to me; I was glad to do both pitches. You end on this amazing swirling orange water groove beneath a wispy piece of straw grass set amidst a patch of moist moss at the top lip of the headwall, where a convenient 2-bolt anchor awaits your grateful hands. Jan 10, 2019
chummer  
Not especially difficult but the 2nd pitch deserves an R rating. Legit runout. Don't fall up there. Jan 13, 2019
Curtis Baird
Johnson City, TN
 
Curtis Baird   Johnson City, TN
 
As of 2/9/19, the small pine used for getting off the ground was found to be broken off about half way up the trunk. It was still sturdy enough, but inevitably it will rot soon and a tree start will no longer be an option. Feb 10, 2019