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Routes in J Crags

Aguille Du Tangelo T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
Bottle Tester, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X
Dread Naught T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Feeding the Rat - Part II T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hunter, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Milwaukee's Best S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rabbits Trod. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Silver Lining T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Sunshine Slab. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Velnio Akmuo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: B. Folsom, L. Bateman3. April 9, 2007
Page Views: 2,186 total, 17/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

An interesting route on a very impressive wall in the large amphitheatre of Bongo Canyon. The route starts on an obvious prow on the South side of the canyon about 200 feet from the huge dryfall, directly above some potholes.
Pitch 1- Climb straight up the prow passing eight bolts and an optional #3 camalot placement in a pocket. You arrive at a two bolt anchor on a ledge. 200’ 5.10 R
Pitch 2- Climb straight up passing 4 bolts till you reach a steep headwall. Traverse right on nice edges to another bolt. A tricky move right brings you to a #0.5 camalot placement, then up and right to a two bolt anchor on a small ledge. 80’ 5.11 PG
Pitch 3- Climb up then left passing a bolt and climb across the smooth black face (crux) to a second bolt(many awkward whippers taken on FA trying to get to the stance to place this bolt). Follow weaknesses left and up passing 3 more bolts to a two bolt anchor on a ledge. 80’ 5.12 PG 13
Pitch 4- Continue up the corner to a bolt, step up and right to a second bolt. Runout climbing brings you to some cam placements in a nice corner. Climb the corner to a nice and interesting belay spot and a two bolt anchor. 80’ 5.11- R
Pitch 5- Climb up and left passing two bolts. Continue up to a nice ledge and two bolt anchor.
60’ 5.10+ R
Pitch 6- Easy 5th class scrambling up and right on a ramp leads to the summit and a small cairn.

Gear: A set of cams, quickdraws and long slings.
I recommend a small emergency bolt kit.

Descent: climb down from the summit to the top of pitch 5. From here, two short and two long rappels lead down the route.
Note: If the 3rd pitch cannot be completed, two seventy meter ropes are required to rappel over the huge roof back to the floor of the amphitheatre from the top of the 2nd pitch.

Location

The route is located in "Bongo Canyon" which is about a 10 minute walk south from the trailhead of Uneva Mine Canyon. Bongo Canyon has a huge amphitheater and dryfall making it very obvious.

Protection

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Photos

John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
A beautiful looking line. Very nice work guys. Sep 17, 2007