Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd Swain ('92)
Page Views: 3,808 total · 27/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A great route for beginners that allows climbers to practice basic mantle techniques, slab footwork, etc. with relatively easy climbing.

Note: This route is really more like 5.6, but both guides call it 5.7-.


This is the route furthest to the right as you face the WNW side of the boulder. It begins on the varnished face at the obvious left-facing crescent.


3 bolts and a pin? to the top. Belay from the top of the boulder at a single bolt, or further back to the double bolt anchor (lots more rope drag).


Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
Does anyone know what the 4th 'bolt' is? It looks like a huge nail with a ring on it, but I've never seen one of these things before on a route. Apr 11, 2007
C Miller   CA  
It might be an old Mammut ring bolt. The route Max Flex, located on the Meat Puppets Wall (1st Pullout on the loop road) is/was equipped with these bolts. Apr 11, 2007
Steph Renfroe
Colorado Springs, CO
Steph Renfroe   Colorado Springs, CO
That pin at the top is pretty intimidating to lower from... craziest thing I ever saw at the top of a route for sure. Mar 29, 2008
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
It is possible to 4th class down into the notch between the top of the crag and the other formation. From there it is a short scramble down to the base on the back side of the crag. Mar 29, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 5/19/10, the ASCA replaced 4 bolts on this route with 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and equipped the existing anchor with mussy hooks. May 20, 2010
smassey   CO
Reading Steph's comment makes me shudder... If anyone knows what this bolt actually is, we'd love to know. (more to the point, why it would be considered legitimate protection...) It failed catastrophically after about 20 pulls with the funkness. 20 future falls?... May 20, 2010
smassey   CO
Apparently someone chopped the anchor on this one. Since they were ASCA mussys, it would be great if that person could put them on a route that needs them, or return them. If you could also patch the holes, that would be cool. In any case, if you go to do this route, you can set a TR anchor with #3,4 Camalots. Mar 25, 2011
  5.7+ PG13
  5.7+ PG13
still no anchors for rapping off of. ended up having leader anchor into the the 3 bolt anchor at the top of the boulder (no rap rings on them) and then the second followed and cleaned the route, and both of us then walked off. Nov 4, 2012
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
4 bolts, no anchors that I saw (although honestly I didn't look too hard). 4th class scramble down once you get on flat ground as you keep climbing past the 4th bolt. You probably dont want to climb this one until anchors are installed.. Mar 21, 2013
Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
very easy to build anchor for towrope with hand size cams in horizontal crack atop route, then have the last climber easily walk off the boulder. be sure to place a few good pieces as the rock is a little suspect in places Mar 24, 2014