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Routes in Mt. Alice

Bodenhamer Lester Torrisi "BLT" T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Central Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hourglass Ridge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Left Side T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Left of Left T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sheryl's Peryl T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 151 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Franz on Apr 11, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route tackles the steep face to the right of the ramp route. It starts with a tricky step around which is a harsh introduction to the intimidating face. Route finding is not obvious. We used the High Peaks guide, and we believe we were able to follow the topo; the most helpful tip I can give is to look for the line you would follow as a first ascentionist. The pitches go as follows:

Pitch 1: Step around onto the face, then up some inobvious terrain. 5.10a.
Pitch 2: 5.9.
Pitch 3: 5.8.
Pitch 4: Crux. Inobvious, poorly protected and loose. I remember this pitch moving up and right. I was glad this was my partner's lead!
Pitch 5: 5.10a.
Pitch 6: Join with the ramp route. 5.7.
Pitch 7: Simul to the top following the ramp route. 5.8.

Protection

Standard alpine rack.

Photos

erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
The lead off the midway ledge begins with excellent crack climbing but gets hard, loose, and very runout above an old Star drive/sling anchor, 5.10+R at least. Aug 6, 2016
I also found pitch 4 to be poorly protected. I remember getting some brass and small cams in, had to do some tricky pinches, etc. a ways above them. Also, it's a little bit hard to tell if you are actually climbing the route the easiest way. I would give P4 an R & maybe solid 10. I thought it was an OK climb by Park standards. Apr 11, 2007
Ryan Franz
Boulder, CO
Ryan Franz   Boulder, CO
In July 2001 we did the Left Side route. I agree with AC's post: the fourth pitch was total sketch. Luckily, it was my partner's lead--he did a great job toughing it out through some dangerous terrain. It was pretty scary just to watch. Following I figured it was harder than 10a--probably mid to upper 5.10. The line is not what I would call obvious, but I do think it was the line indicated in the guidebook and probably the easiest route up that section of the steep face. Once that pitch was dispatched with, there was one more pitch of 5.10 and then it was straightforward to connect with the Ramp route. Overall, it is a nice foray onto the steep face to the right of the ramp, but the rock is not the best and the line is not that aesthetic. Anything more direct will be much harder, though! Apr 11, 2007
My partner and I recently attempted the "Left Side" route on Mt. Alice (5.10a). The first 3 pitches were really great, with sustained, well protected climbing on excellent rock. BTW, the 1st pitch is several feet longer than a full 50m rope to get to the good ledge at the base of the 2nd pitch flake, so bring a 60m rope or be prepared to simul-climb a bit.The 4th pitch was an issue for us. I led may be 2/3rds of the way up that pitch but found very little protection in the second 3rd. I eventually found myself about 30 ft up and 15 ft right from my last good piece, looking at a fairly tricky 5.10ish move with very bad fall potential. I ended up deciding to back off, but had to be lowered about 30 ft on a green alien with only 2 of 4 cams touching the rock before I could get a good rap nut in... a sobering experience. Unless I missed something (I looked at every option I could think of, and am pretty sure I was on the route shown in the RMNP The High Peaks guidebook), I think that pitch should be rated R, especially considering that the route is 8+ miles from the nearest trailhead, and there is usually nobody else in that basin. I also suspect I am not the only one to have had trouble with that pitch as I saw a few rap anchors around and near the base of it (one of which a single 1/4" button bolt with slings, off to the left of the climb, about 1/2 way up the pitch...)If anyone knows something about a better way to do that pitch I'd be very interested in hearing their comments. Also, I am wondering what the next pitch is like.Other than that, the East face of Mount Alice is definitely a beautiful looking piece of rock and the basin at the base an enchanting place to be.Eric. Aug 21, 2002