PRINT: Rock Climb Team Machine, The New River Gorge Region

Team Machine

5.12a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.6 from 44 votes
FA: Eric Hörst, Rick Thompson 1988
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Bridge Area > 2 Bridge Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

An amazing slab route that requires both technique and hard crimping. This route has varied climbing and is hard for both short and tall people. The crux move is moving left off of a terrible mono divot with a very bad foot match.

Location

Walk climber's left from the stairs and find the big crack, easily flakey. This is the first bolted climb to the left.

Protection

6 bolts to anchors.

A blue TCU or alien makes you feel better between the last two bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Michael Martin pulling the mono divot crux on this classic slab line.

Michael Martin just catching the mono divot on this hard slab line.

Setting up for the final tricky moves at the top.

Getting the mono

Michael Martin hanging out on the two biggest holds on the lichen covered upper slab on this hard slab line.

Ladd Raine streching out from the crux mono to the crux reach way out left.

Krzysiek on Team Machine (5.12a) 5/2018

Michael Martin getting ready for a super scary mantle onto a small sloping ledge with the NRG bridge in the background.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

5.12a

There are some already great photos of the route here on MP but here is a video for anyone that is interested. youtu.be/6yvqnRtmVwo Oct 15, 2019

Jeff G
Colorado

5.12a

Great, Great pitch of slab climbing! I definitely wanted gear for the top, seems really scary without it. Maybe a tad soft for NRG 12a but I'll take it! Nov 12, 2020

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

5.12a

This route is not as sustained as other 12a's at the NRG but, in my opinion, the mono move section is still quite on point regarding difficulty compared to other NRG 12a's. When I did it I neutered the top by placing a small cam between 5 and 6 and I found a great vertical placement for a small nut in a horizontal directly up and left of the last good horizontal before the committing moves to the anchors. Nov 13, 2020