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Routes in Five Fingers Area

Chicken Chickenhead T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fat Man's Misery T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Five Fingers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hornet's Rest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scumbag Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tenderloin T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Waltz, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Larry Evans and Rich Ream
Page Views: 377 total · 3/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start up a fist crack between a slab on your right and a steep face on your left. Several large chickenheads provide jugs for those with poor crack climbing technique. Stem through a long trough chimney to what appears to be a belay underneath a right-facing dihedral. The crux is getting into the dihedral. I'm pretty sure that the chickenhead at the crux is the reason for the route's name.

Location

Just left of the Waltz, Chicken Chickenhead climbs the trough chimney underneath the tree that grows out of the rock beneath the Callitwhatyouplease rappel. Use the Callitwhatyouplease rappel to get down.

Protection

Medium to large camming devices or big hexes for the more passive personalities. There are some slings below the crux in case you don't want to top out.

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