Y2K Crackdown
5.7+ PG13,
Trad, 120 ft (36 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 7
votes
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, 31 December 1999
Utah
> W Desert
> Ibex
> Sheep Rock Area
Description
An easy yet adventurous climb, Y2K Crackdown attacks an interesting line across four layers of rock. Each stratum is a little different, varying rock quality and features, each requiring a different set of techniques to ascend. Between layers, there are ample resting opportunities on ledge systems that collect rotten rock from above. It can be easy to run out your protection in these spots, so be careful not to slip on the loose debris. Chimneying and stemming are frequently used techniques, and jugs appear just as you think the climbing is getting tougher than the rating. A quick approach makes this a worthwhile warm up. This route is in the shade in the early afternoon; however, the belay up top is exposed.
Location
About 40 meters to the north of the end of the cliff band, find a faint, left-facing dihedral. Above the dihedral is a deep groove that makes a large letter V in the horizon line. A bolted line resides just to the south of the route.
Protection
Medium to large camming devices, helmets and long runners to alleviate rope drag as the route wanders between strata. Belay from the two-bolt anchor of the neighboring sport route. Walk off to the north end of the cliff band and down a grassy gully.
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Salt Lake City, UT
Your route descriptions convince me you should write the second edition! Y2K CRACKDOWN, however, does not have the traverse as outlined in your photo. It pretty much goes straight up the whole way.
The route to the right which shares the same start and then follows a parallel crack system to the top through a steep bulge is A SHEEP AT THE WHEEL, 5.10a, trad. To the left of Y2K is A GOOD SHEPHERD BRINGS DESPERATE MEN, 5.9, trad, mixed gear with 4-5 bolts. SHEEP DIP, 5.9, with two bolts passed on the lower part and is about 25m to the right of Y2K. SHETLAND DREAMS, 5.7, mixed is to the north about in the middle between Y2K and A SHEEP IN A WOLF'S CLOTHING. All go to the top, all put up traditionally. I don't know how to attach topos to this web page, let me know if you need future beta. Sheep Rock remains the main moderate wall and has about 8-9 routes on it now.
You probably noticed alot more routes all over spread about. Almost double the amount of fun new stuff since the book. Wolfenstein area has many new great offerings. Nice to hear about people doing some of the routes...such a long and arduous approach from the boulders, afterall!!
Apr 12, 2007
Salt Lake City, UT