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Routes in Sheep Rock Area

A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sheep Dip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shetland Dreams T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Y2K Crackdown T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Franziska and James Garrett, 31 December 1999
Page Views: 41 total, 0/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

An easy yet adventurous climb, Y2K Crackdown attacks an interesting line across four layers of rock. Each stratum is a little different, varying rock quality and features, each requiring a different set of techniques to ascend. Between layers, there are ample resting opportunities on ledge systems that collect rotten rock from above. It can be easy to run out your protection in these spots, so be careful not to slip on the loose debris. Chimneying and stemming are frequently used techniques, and jugs appear just as you think the climbing is getting tougher than the rating. A quick approach makes this a worthwhile warm up. This route is in the shade in the early afternoon; however, the belay up top is exposed.

Location

About 40 meters to the north of the end of the cliff band, find a faint, left-facing dihedral. Above the dihedral is a deep groove that makes a large letter “V” in the horizon line. A bolted line resides just to the south of the route.

Protection

Medium to large camming devices, helmets and long runners to alleviate rope drag as the route wanders between strata. Belay from the two-bolt anchor of the neighboring sport route. Walk off to the north end of the cliff band and down a grassy gully.

Photos

Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7+
Fun route involving some tough cranks over bulges with lots of stemming. Big holds but physical. Line goes straight up the most obvious crack system. Calling it a hand crack is a stretch. It's more of a chimney/offwidth in a lot of spots. The middle crux involves pulling over a chockstone formation or if you're really tiny, going behind it. Jan 15, 2015
Hi Ryan,
Yea, no kidding, your route descriptions rock! The fixed line on Shadow Buttress is probably on Tim Kemple's route that he is establishing. I would love to learn more about it, but I hear it is 5.14 something. Wild line! He is the perfect guy for the task. A new era arrives at Ibex, very cool. Apr 14, 2007
Ryan,
Your route descriptions convince me you should write the second edition! Y2K CRACKDOWN, however, does not have the traverse as outlined in your photo. It pretty much goes straight up the whole way.
The route to the right which shares the same start and then follows a parallel crack system to the top through a steep bulge is A SHEEP AT THE WHEEL, 5.10a, trad. To the left of Y2K is A GOOD SHEPHERD BRINGS DESPERATE MEN, 5.9, trad, mixed gear with 4-5 bolts. SHEEP DIP, 5.9, with two bolts passed on the lower part and is about 25m to the right of Y2K. SHETLAND DREAMS, 5.7, mixed is to the north about in the middle between Y2K and A SHEEP IN A WOLF'S CLOTHING. All go to the top, all put up traditionally. I don't know how to attach topos to this web page, let me know if you need future beta. Sheep Rock remains the main moderate wall and has about 8-9 routes on it now.
You probably noticed alot more routes all over spread about. Almost double the amount of fun new stuff since the book. Wolfenstein area has many new great offerings. Nice to hear about people doing some of the routes...such a long and arduous approach from the boulders, afterall!!

Apr 12, 2007