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Routes in Snakeskin Buttress

Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blood Meridian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Caesar Salad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Gravy Leg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattler’s Arête S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakeskin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Garrett, Pat Maloney, George Rosenthal, 12 April 1997
Page Views: 1,568 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Scramble up an easy face to a bolt. Slither past a pin and enter the weaknesses that snake to and fro. There are several possible variations, as the cracks and seams fork like a viper’s tongue. Touchy traverses, an odd combination of jams, friction, face moves and rest stances will leave you smiling by the time you reach the belay ledge. For the second pitch (can be lead as one pitch, but the rope drag would be problematic), scramble up to a bolt and pop the crux bulge to a slab stance. Wind your way up the slab to a set of anchors just below the summit and enjoy the view. This is some of the highest quality rock at Ibex. The approach is a tad longer than some, but well worth the extra minute or two. There is a terrific flat spot upon which to deposit gear, change your shoes, relax, and belay. This area sees the sun for most of the day, but the sun goes over the horizon in the early evening, providing adequate shade on hotter days.


The south face of the Syringe Wall is divided by a chimney. Snakeskin climbs the weaknesses between the chimney and the arête to the left. A ledge is visible towards the top, and the second pitch disappears over the horizon above.


Mixed bolts, fixed lost arrows (anodized blue) set of nuts and small to medium camming devices for the first pitch, all bolts for the second, crux pitch. A two rope rappel from the top anchors gains the base of the climb. Several long slings will help to alleviate rope drag. Some of the fixed protection is placed in awkward places that wind back and forth across the weaknesses. Also, it may be wise to back up the pitons that are bent (they weren’t fully seated and have yet to be tied off). A helmet is recommended.
Pitch #2 Rappel Anchor retrofitted October 2014. Pulls no problem. Oct 12, 2014
Nik Sorenson
Nik Sorenson  
If it is windy, walking off is the best option (and it may be in any case). We got our rope stuck in between the large boulder and wall just below the 2nd pitch anchor. The boulder has that sharp stuff near at the constriction so it grabs ropes. It's easy to walk around and rap down to free it, if you have another rope, but it takes time. May 19, 2014
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
A single 70 m will get you down. The second pitch is fairly short and the leader can lower back down to the belay if desired. Apr 10, 2013
Fun old school route! Not just clipping's a thinker! Nov 1, 2012
Salt Lake City, Utah
BobGray   Salt Lake City, Utah
What a great route! One of the must do routes at Ibex. Bring your A game though, not for the 5.9 leader. Feb 17, 2012
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
Fun route!Beware the rattlesnake infested corner at the base of Snakeskin. Saw four there 4/20/10. Apr 21, 2010
Greg Martinez
Greg Martinez   SLC UTAH
the 2nd pitch was better than the 1st scary anchor on pitch 2. Sep 22, 2008