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Routes in Snakeskin Buttress

Bernerinnen Anstatt Klapperschlangen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blood Meridian S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Caesar Salad S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mexican Gravy Leg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rattler’s Arête S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Snakeskin T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: probably James Garrett
Page Views: 1,721 total, 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Scramble up an easy-angled arête, clipping a bolt on the way. Gradually, the climb steepens becomes both more challenging and more interesting. Wrestle over a small bulge and scamper up to an undercling. Here, the crux takes you by surprise because you were expecting something different from below. Pull up on a crimp ladder until you can edge your way up to the next stance. Clip the final bolt and pull over the roof onto the belay ledge. The anchors are visible from here, and reside just a few feet away on the main wall. The rock quality is some of the best at Ibex. The approach is a tad longer than some, but well worth the extra minute or two. There is a terrific flat spot upon which to deposit gear, change your shoes, relax, and belay. This area sees the sun for most of the day, but the sun goes over the horizon in the early evening, providing adequate shade on hotter days.

Location

The south face of the Syringe Wall is divided by a chimney. Snakeskin climbs the weaknesses between the chimney and the arête to the left. Rattler’s Arête is the bolted line that sweeps up the western arête that terminates with a small roof under the belay ledge for Snakeskin.

Protection

All bolts, rappel off the belay anchors of Snakeskin (lowering off is hard on your rope). The top bolt can serve as a directional for those wishing to top rope the route after climbing the first pitch of Snakeskin (be sure to guard the rope of the edge though).
Blake Summers
Park City, Utah
 
Blake Summers   Park City, Utah
 
Fun route! The area lives up to its name. Apr 21, 2010