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Routes in The Optimator

"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
90 proof T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Annunaki T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Backside Luge T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Baroque T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beer Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Bow Flex T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brodie Machine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Casey's Route T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Charlie's Pillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlie's Pillar Direct Start T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chick Flick T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choss Eliminate T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Ditch 'em T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Double Bock T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Gunning For Gonzo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hayutake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Hefe Weissen T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jews On Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jive Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kitchen Sink T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lady Pillar T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Island Iced Ted T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Miller Genuine Draft T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mudslide T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Neat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Optimator T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ram Implosion Wing T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Road Soda T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sardikar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Season of the Worm, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Soul Fire T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
St. Pauli Girl T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Scoops T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Unnamed 11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Evan Stevens & David Bloom - 2005ish
Page Views: 2,984 total · 22/month
Shared By: Ian Schmit on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Walk past Annunaki down the wall a ways. Look up to spot this impressive wide hands roof 100 feet off the deck. Burl your way up the wide 5.9 start via some awkward moves in a flared chimney to the base of the roof. Launch out of the roof on polished feet and wide hand jams. Just as the jams get their widest, be prepared for a confrontation with some guano. Make one of the best positioned moves I've ever done to clip the chains.

Protection

Heavy on the #3.5 and new #4 Camalots. A few #3 and #2, possibly a couple #1 too, although I found few uses for them. 70M rope.

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Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
guano!!! this route is great fun all the way till you hit the largest swarth of shit in the creek.. i got crushed at the point the "guano" took over.. May 23, 2012
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
Oh man, this route is fun, until the mega poop roof. It was full of sand and a huge swath of crap layered very thick. Slick and poopy situation indeed. Nov 5, 2013
Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
Would-be 5-star mega-classic but the guano finish left me feeling downright dirty. Definately still worth jumping on though. I suggest saving about four #3 camalot-sized pieces for the roof and one #5 C4 is great for the wide bit mid-pitch (not 2 of 'em like the guidebook suggests). Apr 19, 2014
Wade Plafcan
Moab, UT
 
Wade Plafcan   Moab, UT
 
Agreed that this climb would be mega classic if not for the guano. Super fun movement and gnarly roof. Word of caution, I had a blue friend size piece pop out when i fell at the roof, luckily my next #3 BD caught me. exciting! still worth doing the route but be cautious with cam placements in the guano and soft sand, which i am pretty sure made the cam ooze out. May 20, 2014
Luke Mehall
Durango, Colorado
  5.11+
Luke Mehall   Durango, Colorado
  5.11+
Anchor fixed up and tat replaced with chain courtesy of ASCA.

This is one of the burlier 5.11 routes at The Creek, and one of my new favorites. Hop on it, just bring plenty of #3s and #4s. No need to bring more than one #1, contrary to what the Bloom book describes.

uses every bit of a 70 meter rope. Oct 21, 2014
Woah. This thing is fun and hard! Nov 26, 2017
Jon Appleberry
Yosemite, CA
 
Jon Appleberry   Yosemite, CA
 
Fun adventurous pitch with a HUGE roof. Didn't see too much poop in the roof, but maybe is just not as much as pitch 7 on the rostrum Apr 2, 2018

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