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Sport, 85 ft,
Avg: 3 from 4
FA: Tom Cecil and Justin Day, Nov 2004
> S - Islands & B…
> Laem Phra Nang…
> Tonsai Bay
> Marley Wall
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
**THIS ROUTE NO LONGER EXISTS***
For posterity's sake...
Start on a vertical wall on the left side, just outside of the cave. Follow the bolts and threads into the stalactites, being mindful of what you grab with your hands, feet, and legs. This is a fun place to get creative. Higher up in the cave I found a ledge that offered good rest with some stemming. Coming out of the cave at the lip was the best part. I found myself moving my hands down lower than my feet to get out of the cave. After making a move out of the cave, you're at the anchors.
For an option, there is another set of anchors about 10 feet higher with climbing also at 5.10b. A 60m rope was long enough, but tie knots in the ends to be safe...the ground one gets lowered to is angled.
As a 5.10 leader, this climb was my favorite from my 10 day stay in Railay.
The first bolt is on the left side, just outside of the cave. The route works its way up into the cave before popping out at the top. Rappel anchors at the lip, and a second set of rappel anchors about 10 feet higher.
About 10 bolts/threads, and then the anchors. Two more to go another 10 feet up to a second set of anchors.