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Routes in Marley Wall

Catch A Fire S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easy Skankin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exodus S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jammin' S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rock, Roots, Reggae S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Tom Cecil and Justin Day, Nov 2004
Page Views: 335 total, 3/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Apr 9, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

  • **THIS ROUTE NO LONGER EXISTS***

For posterity's sake...


Start on a vertical wall on the left side, just outside of the cave. Follow the bolts and threads into the stalactites, being mindful of what you grab with your hands, feet, and legs. This is a fun place to get creative. Higher up in the cave I found a ledge that offered good rest with some stemming. Coming out of the cave at the lip was the best part. I found myself moving my hands down lower than my feet to get out of the cave. After making a move out of the cave, you're at the anchors.

For an option, there is another set of anchors about 10 feet higher with climbing also at 5.10b. A 60m rope was long enough, but tie knots in the ends to be safe...the ground one gets lowered to is angled.

As a 5.10 leader, this climb was my favorite from my 10 day stay in Railay.

Location

The first bolt is on the left side, just outside of the cave. The route works its way up into the cave before popping out at the top. Rappel anchors at the lip, and a second set of rappel anchors about 10 feet higher.

Protection

About 10 bolts/threads, and then the anchors. Two more to go another 10 feet up to a second set of anchors.

Photos

Drew Spaulding
Boulder, CO
Drew Spaulding   Boulder, CO
Kaya and Easy Skankin' are 2 different routes. Easy Skankin' was put up first and was quite popular for a year or 2. It went up the middle of the wall and through a canopy of delicate stalactites... It was considered the moderate route on the wall(6a) and many people climbed it because of the easy grade... Tom and Co decided to remove the stainless hangers and punch in these bolts instead of rebolting it with Titanium. The danger factor of belaying under people climbing through the precarious stalactites out weighed it's fun, moderate nature. SO, Easy Skankin' does not exist anymore! Kaya is the stellar line with the Ti bolts up the overhanging corner... Feb 1, 2015
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
This route isn't in my 8th edition King Climbers book. Where is it in relation to the other routes here?

Is it the same as Kaya?

What kind of bolts are on this route? Feb 14, 2014
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10a
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10a
This is a decent route, but it would be really great if the rock quality was better. Nov 14, 2007