Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Little Finger aka Penis Rock Area

Little Finger aka Penis Rock - South Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pinnacle Gully - Chungas Revenge S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pinnacle Gully - Pajama People T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pinnacle Gully - Wowie Zowie S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Jeff Lowe & Paul Hogan, 1972.
Page Views: 4,394 total · 33/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


32 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The obvious 4 bolt line on the rock. A summit that every Gunny climber must attain.

Location

The most obvious route at Hartman's.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Jay M  
This climb was re-bolted with 5 ASCA half inch stainless steel bolts on 9/6/2017. The original pin was left for historical value. Sep 8, 2017
James Hicks
Grand Junction, CO
  5.11-
James Hicks   Grand Junction, CO
  5.11-
At the risk of sounding like a weenie, I must agree with this comment above. This thing is mighty stout for the grade, haha. May 24, 2017
Most difficult 10c I've ever climbed.... For those who can't pull the crux, you can probably aid through it, because the bolt spacing is so close. At least then you can get your gear. Oct 12, 2015
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Was there last week. It still holds up. Excuse the pun please. Jun 30, 2010
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10a
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10a
Honestly, I'm such a neophyte at this new fangled rating thing that anything over 5.10 is/was basically 5.impossible for me.

It was definitely an adrenaline dyno move for me. In fact, if you read Bob Dickerson's account in Gunnison Rock of the most bogus rappel he ever did, a double rap off the top of this thing, with one person rapping off each side simultaneously, with no pro but rope friction....that was me in that most dubious adventure! May 14, 2009
YDPL8S, I noticed you rated this a mere 10a. You hardman you! May 13, 2009
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10a
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.10a
On the black and white shots I just submitted, those who know Jimmy Newberry can see that he is muttering "Desperate!!!", hence the direct aid. Jul 27, 2007
Jello, I was a WSC student from 1975 on and it was our common knowledge that you first climbed this tower which we always called the Lowe Pinnacle. I wrongly thought that you had done it with Mike Weiss so it is good to set the record straight. I had NO idea you led it with only a single drilled anchor for pro. BRRRRurly! Thinking about that made my privates turtle up. Cheers to you and all the wild, wild stuff you climbed including this little tower. Jun 11, 2007
Jello  
Paul Hogan and I made the first ascent of this rock back in 1972. Paul was a student at Western State and I worked for Outward Bound in Lake City. Paul told me about this cool pinnacle that Harvey Carter had drilled a fixed angle on, but aparently hadn't finished the route. I led the pitch free with only the old drilled army angle for protection. Several decades later I went back to climb it and found those "new" bolts. It was a cool little climb before, well protected for the crux but a little run-out afterward, adding up to a micro-classic. Now it's just another sport climb.

By the way, I called the tower the Little Finger.

-Jeff Lowe Jun 11, 2007
Thanx Allen for jogging my memory. They were just studs back then weren't they. May 16, 2007
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Phil,
There were always four bolts on it. Hangerless as I recall, but four of them for sure. I climbed it it several times in the early eighties. I seem to remember Jimmy D. put it up (?). May 4, 2007
FOUR bolts! 4 BOLTS? What the ph-uck do you mean FOUR BOLTS?
I know its been since the last century that I was there but I do not recall that many BOLTS. What gives Local ethics or my memory? May 4, 2007