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Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds

5.10a, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 26 votes
FA: Michael Crowder, Chris Hall, 1984
Georgia > Mt Yonah > Main Face

Description

LSD offers thin balancy slab climbing past three bolts to a bolted belay. First bolt is high. There is a second optional pitch that goes up underneath the second overhang. Rap from bolts up there.

Location

LSD is located between Afternoon Delight and Special Edition on the steep slab right of the balance climb area on the right side of the main face.

Protection

3 bolts, anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follower crushing the 10a moves after trippin on lsd
[Hide Photo] Follower crushing the 10a moves after trippin on lsd
Pro below the bolt is sparse/awkward!
[Hide Photo] Pro below the bolt is sparse/awkward!
On lower portion of Lucy in Sky soling route in cast. Young & Dumb...
[Hide Photo] On lower portion of Lucy in Sky soling route in cast. Young & Dumb...
Paul following LSD.
[Hide Photo] Paul following LSD.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Shadrock
Here and there.
[Hide Comment] Ground fall potential can be mitigated by starting to the right (Under Special Edition mountainproject.com/v/georg…), placing a few pieces, and then traversing back left and up for the first bolt. Nov 30, 2009
joe disciullo
Charlotte, NC
[Hide Comment] Should this be listed as Trad or Trad, Sport instead of Sport? Apr 14, 2010
[Hide Comment] This route is now completely sport aside from a few placements here and there. There is a nice pocket that I was able to fit a .75 BD cam into before first bolt. Not bomber, but would stop a slide.
Leadouts are fairly long but not really dangerous aside from scraped knees. Staying slightly right after the first bolt, there is a nice sidepull that gives a rest from the finger crunching. Mar 11, 2013
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] Just to clarify, this route was not retro-bolted or turned "sport". The old bolts were replaced (July 2011) one for one per the original equipper's placements. Much in the spirit of North Carolina slab climbing, the bolts will keep you off of the ground where gear can't. Mar 15, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great climb. You might even get away with calling it, "Anti-sport." Don't pound the caffeine before a morning try. Apr 15, 2014
James Dowdy
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] A beautiful route...established by some badass OGs long before we knew what 'sport climbing' was...however: the dates posted for the first ascent are incorrect: I first climbed this route in 1984 or '85, and it was well-established at that time.

1981 perhaps???

Have fun!

Jim Mar 22, 2016