PRINT: Rock Climb Ruta de Roja, Red Rocks

Ruta de Roja

5.6, Trad, 180 ft (55 m),

Avg: 1.5 from 27 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (01) Calico Basin > Red Spring > Coco Crag

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This route has a couple good moves but is lacking a distinct crux. Pro is somewhat mossy so be careful. This route is worth doing once while in the area getting the other routes ticked off. NOTICE: This route and Fontanar's descriptions and length in the Brock/McMillan guidebood are off; routes are at around 180 feet in length!

Location

This route shares the same start as Fontanar; but after about 15 feet on the pillar; traverse right on big holds to the obvious thin crack. Follow this crack up to the chimney; climb through the chimney and up the face to build your anchor.

Protection

Trad rack only with more of the small to medium sized wires and cams. Be a little careful; the varnished crack down low is a little mossy; make sure your placements are good. Up high, there is some friable rock so climb softly. No anchors; just walk off like you would on Fontanar de Rojo.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follow the crack up past the left side of the bush; into the chimney; then straight up to the top of the cliff!

Just starting the varnished "mossy" crack after the traverse.

Follow the thin crack all the way to the chimney!

Same start as Fontanar; in about five feet you should then start traversing straight right to the varhished crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cunning Linguist

When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap. Apr 10, 2007

MN norske
Austin, MN

5.6 PG13

Slings at the top are gone. Had to traverse over to the anchors for the 5.8 sport anchors. PG-13 due to the lack of protection down low. Apr 20, 2014

Ben Townsend

Fun and well protected, more like 5.6 than 5.7. We traversed into the right crack a bit higher, at a diagonal seam, rather than stepping right at the initial ledge. 180' is about right if you do all the climbing, though one could stop at about 150' and then scramble up a loose gully on the right. Apr 14, 2016

Nick Drake
Kent, WA

I would agree on lack of pro down low, the climbing there is quite easy though. Still pretty mossy in the crack. I wasn't lichen it. Mar 27, 2017

Keith Boone
Henderson, NV

The route has not cleaned up much over the years and still is very crispy. The bottom was super easy and well protected. We used a small tree for an anchor from the top. The belayer and the climber will not be able to hear each other. Walked off like classic corner. We took a paired down rock to 2 inches but did not place much gear due to the fragile rock. I would like to do it again and try the chimney at the top. We traversed onto the east face. Dec 6, 2021

Harris Kashtan

5.6

Ended up just climbing this to the Moon Where the Wind Blows anchors and lowering out. Pro wasn't too bad. Oct 10, 2023