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Fontanar de Rojo

5.8, Trad, 180 ft,  Avg: 1.9 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rock > 01-Calico Basin > Coco Crag
Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route follows different crack systems to the top of the cliff. Ascend the right facing flake to the top of the pillar; then follow the obvious varnished corner (crux??) to its top; and then follow the left angling wide flare to the top (some thin gear). Crux would be the obvious varnished corner; but it looks more intimidating then it is; the jams are SUPER secure. The crux is great (2 Stars) while the rest would only be 1 star.

Location

This route is 15 feet to the right of Stupid Cat at the obvious pillar feature. At the top, I recommend walking off as per Classic Corner of Calico since you'll be right on top of it.

Protection

Bring a selection of gear including some thin crack pieces for the start and also the top. No anchors so walk off right or left.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jared on TR and entering the fun part!!
[Hide Photo] Jared on TR and entering the fun part!!
Perfect Hand Jams!
[Hide Photo] Perfect Hand Jams!
At the top of the varnished corner; climb through the annoying bush and up the left angling flare above (can't see in photo!!) Have Fun!!
[Hide Photo] At the top of the varnished corner; climb through the annoying bush and up the left angling flare above (can't see in photo!!) Have Fun!!
Brian just reaching the crux varnished corner; this part is the best section of the climb; too bad its not longer!!
[Hide Photo] Brian just reaching the crux varnished corner; this part is the best section of the climb; too bad its not longer!!
Reaching the top of the pillar feature before the varnished crack.
[Hide Photo] Reaching the top of the pillar feature before the varnished crack.
Brian climbing the starting pillar feature of Fontanar de Rojo.
[Hide Photo] Brian climbing the starting pillar feature of Fontanar de Rojo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap. Apr 10, 2007
MN norske
Henderson
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Great hand crack for maybe 15-20 feet. Only gear I used was .4, .75, and two 1 inch cams. After the hand crack there are still two slings in the chimney to rap down off. Top out if you want but it just seemed like a lot of work for crap climbing past where the slings were. Apr 20, 2014
[Hide Comment] More like 5.7 than 5.8. Above the varnished corner, we climbed up the face right of the bush, then traversed left into the exit crack; this section was probably the crux, and involved some creative gear placements. Apr 14, 2016