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Routes in Chair Rock

Adrift with the Bajau T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blues for Allah T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Destination Unknown T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender Route (Water Music) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Low Pressure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Stuff T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toot Suite aka Toot Suit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trails of Tropical Lotions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: I worked it on toprope
Page Views: 991 total, 8/month
Shared By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Be the first on your block to get a great first ascent.

This is next to the Water Music on the north side of Chair Rock. I led this thing on aid a couple of times and then top roped and then worked on it a total of a dozen times. I got very close to freeing it. Maybe just a move or two short. Never tried to lead it. I conveniently left for NYC for grad school. I suspect it has been been ignored for years.

I think this could be a great, hard, Platte classic. Short and to the point from beginning to end.

Eds. From Allen Hill, this is distinct from Thin Ice. It also may not have seen a free ascent yet.

Location

I put some anchors in. I think a couple of pins. Might need to be beefed up. No easy way to the top.

Protection

Thin thin thin. Brass nuts, off sets, and TCUs. Hell, bang in a knifeblade if need be! I say go for it.

Photos

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Thanks Allen, sorry I didn't make a better effort this summer at connecting with you so you could have come out a few times before I sent it. Sep 7, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
 
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
 
Way to go Jason! I'm happy it finally got finished. I certainly had no interest in it at my advance age. Sep 7, 2008
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Good work Jason! (Hoss!) Aug 26, 2008
This route now goes free. I'm calling it "Adrift with the Bajau." Aug 25, 2008
Felt it was somewhere around 5.12b/c on TR and a hell of a lot harder placing gear on lead (haven't done it clean). I replaced the webbing and added two rap rings to the two-bolt anchor during the last week of of June.

Also, per Allen's comment above, I do not think there is any need for a fixed pin on this route. Just my two cents. Jul 9, 2008