Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,624 total · 18/month
Shared By: AJ Onsight on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This has a highball first bolt. The crux moves are near top reaching bear ear & reaching out.

Location

To the far right of back side, this is the route sorta in the dihedral, the one with vertical finger crack.

Protection

8 draws.

Photos

M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Somebody has got to be able to write a better description than this. Jul 25, 2011
Brandon Mathis
Durango
 
Brandon Mathis   Durango
 
As I recall, after proj'ing on this for longer than it should have taken me, the lower moves are powerful, fun, and steep. Start on high hands, work feet up, and get mean for a few moves. I kind of cut this route in half - with a super sweet, chickenwing rest three or four clips up, good both ways, just before things get dicey. Then work out on pyramid holds, get those feet up and go for the bear's ear - it's good. If you're short like me, it's a crimpy couple of sidepulls and an awkward clip that I always seemed to snap after passing it, then the grade drops to maybe 5.8 for the last few moves before the chains. Sweet route. Pumpy start, crimpy crux. Fun throw. The a/b rating is for tall/short. Thanks for the catch, Bee! Jan 7, 2015