Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches
FA: Pete Gallagher, Pete Williams, 1979
Page Views: 10,719 total · 68/month
Shared By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

I'm suprised this is not in the database. This is the line on Big Rock. The Petes really did a nice job on this.

I have not done this route in 18 or 19 years so this may be a little sketchy. Maybe Peter can clear my description up.

Climb a crack/slab that is just on the otherside of the big boulder/block that Childhood's End starts at. It's 5.7.

Continue for two more pitches to the base of a leaning awkward crack. It's hard to describe, but let's just say it diagonals upward and right on the vertical wall on the side of the tongue that forms the outline of the route. This thing is rated 10ish, but it's hard and gnarly. I've seen a couple of very good climbers have a hard time with this thing. I'd call it 11 desperate. Tape up.

Belay at bolts. Above is the real business. Climb past five or six bolts on hard 5.11+ steep face. You pinch nubbins and sharp crystals to make progress. Belay at bolts. This pitch may be on the 5.12 side if you ask me.

Climb another steep and scary 5.11 pitch past four or five bolts. Belay at bolts.

Now you're in the Fields of Dreams slabs. Climb a 5.9 pitch with bolts, then a 5.8 slab with a couple of bolts, then a 5.7 with one bolt, then runout easy two or three pitches to the top.

Location

Same rappel as Childhood's End.

Protection

Friends #1 through #4. A big Camalot might come in handy on the evil, crack pitch (I'm guessing you all sense my opinion of the crack pitch). Some stoppers. Quick draws.
It's a scary route with some big runouts.
I'm guessing the old, quarter-inch bolts have been replaced.

Photos