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Routes in Big Rock Candy Mountain

Childhood's End T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Fields of Dreams Growing Wild T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Petered Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotten Teeth T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shock Treatment T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sweet Catastrophe T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2 R
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Type: Trad, 1100 ft, 11 pitches
FA: Pete Gallagher, Pete Williams, 1979
Page Views: 9,865 total · 72/month
Shared By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I'm suprised this is not in the database. This is the line on Big Rock. The Petes really did a nice job on this.

I have not done this route in 18 or 19 years so this may be a little sketchy. Maybe Peter can clear my description up.

Climb a crack/slab that is just on the otherside of the big boulder/block that Childhood's End starts at. It's 5.7.

Continue for two more pitches to the base of a leaning awkward crack. It's hard to describe, but let's just say it diagonals upward and right on the vertical wall on the side of the tongue that forms the outline of the route. This thing is rated 10ish, but it's hard and gnarly. I've seen a couple of very good climbers have a hard time with this thing. I'd call it 11 desperate. Tape up.

Belay at bolts. Above is the real business. Climb past five or six bolts on hard 5.11+ steep face. You pinch nubbins and sharp crystals to make progress. Belay at bolts. This pitch may be on the 5.12 side if you ask me.

Climb another steep and scary 5.11 pitch past four or five bolts. Belay at bolts.

Now you're in the Fields of Dreams slabs. Climb a 5.9 pitch with bolts, then a 5.8 slab with a couple of bolts, then a 5.7 with one bolt, then runout easy two or three pitches to the top.

Location

Same rappel as Childhood's End.

Protection

Friends #1 through #4. A big Camalot might come in handy on the evil, crack pitch (I'm guessing you all sense my opinion of the crack pitch). Some stoppers. Quick draws.
It's a scary route with some big runouts.
I'm guessing the old, quarter-inch bolts have been replaced.

Photos

Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
I've read the story of the FA in Climb, but it would be cool to hear about it from Pete Gallagher. Apr 6, 2007
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
 
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
 
Pete, thanks for putting these up. I really like the "It'll go" hand up photo on the crux.

I made my opinion on the crack pitch by rating your photo.

Black and white indeed. The joys of the old Colorado College darkroom.

See you at the wedding I hope and hopefully before hand Apr 23, 2007
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
Pete, there was a reference saying that the first few pitches had been destroyed by rock fall and you were in the process of re-establishing them. Any beta on the new route? Apr 24, 2007
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
Awesome photos Pete! Thanks for posting them. I would love to climb this route someday. Apr 24, 2007
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
Pete, you are modest as ever. I do not remember any pitch on Fields that had more than 6 bolts. Compare this to Childhood's 11-bolt crux pitch, and add in some decomposing granite and an R rating could be in order.

BTW I replaced your homemade aluminum angle hangers and 1/4" star drives with ASCA stainless gear a few years ago. Several hangers and one bolt broke with the first tug on the funkness. I left the lower bolts alone (except for one anchor) as they were pretty bomber 1/2" self-drives. I assumed that they were a variation to your line as the climbing felt more like 5.10.

Proud effort and a proud line. Fields makes Childhood's seem like a clip up. Apr 24, 2007
John McNamee
Littleton, CO
John McNamee   Littleton, CO  
Thanks for adding this to the site. It's a great piece of history. Love the photos. May 16, 2007
Pete Williams
Dinosaur, Colorado
Pete Williams   Dinosaur, Colorado
Great to see those old photos once again, Pete. FYI, my journal records the FA as June 30 and the FFA as July 5 (not June), in 1979. I remember that week in between as being interminable--all I could think about was going back and finishing the job.

I just added a photo of Paul Jakus leading the fourth pitch--I thought folks would appreciate a different perspective.

Kevin, did you replace all the bolts above this pitch, or just the ones with aluminum hangers? (Boy, were they ever a bad idea! Even worse than the nail drives.) If so, you've got my eternal gratitude. If the route still has original bolts on it, my vote would be to give it an X rating rather than an R. Apr 2, 2008
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
Pete...I replaced all of the bolts. The 1/4" star drives with aluminum angle stock hangers were classic! Too bad they broke so easily. I think I have one or two whole ones if you want me to send you one just email me your address.

Thank you for the topo, and for the route...it's one of the classic S. Platte test pieces and even with the modern hardware it is still bold and wild. Apr 2, 2008
Pete Williams
Dinosaur, Colorado
Pete Williams   Dinosaur, Colorado
Kevin, Thanks for your comments on the route. I also appreciate the offer of the old bolt hanger, but I guess I'm not that nostalgic. I remember them well enough!

I recognize the labor and cost that went into upgrading the bolts. Thank you once again. I'll be making a donation to ASCA . . . Apr 3, 2008
Kevin Fox
parker
 
Kevin Fox   parker
 
Did Fields of Dreams yesterday. Great route and definitely glad to see the new ASCA bolts (Thanks Kevin Stricker). Coming off of the offwidth pitch onto the face seemed like the crux. Crappy flaking rock. Amazing place. Not a soul around (climbing that is). Jun 8, 2008
Mike Willig  
 
This route is quite the adventure...the climbing and scenery have an extremely remote feeling. Fantastic! Kevin, Thanks for rebolting...I'll also be donating to the ASCA. I can't imagine being at some of those belays with 1/4" bolts. The Petes definitely have nuts of steel. Sweet route. Jun 8, 2008
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
This is what climbing is all about. Love reading the stories and comments.

I hope to do this route in September if I can find a partner... sounds scary! Jun 25, 2011
ejesse
Colorado Springs
 
ejesse   Colorado Springs
 
This is a stellar route, is in a beautiful setting on gorgeous rock, and is well-protected. The below link gives a very detailed account of attempts at both approaches, probably the crux, for anyone attempting the route. It also provides pictures of the pitches and my take on them (probably less useful). Thanks, ASCA, for rebolting this classic and the vision of the first ascensionists.
thrillseekersanonymous.com/… Aug 8, 2015
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
What a fun route! Glad for the ASCA bolts too!

I felt that 10+ crack pitch was exhausting, more so than the 11d. With more traffic, hopefully that crux will clean up. We pulled off some pebbles, but I managed to get it, only to fall higher on the 11a pitch.

Highly recommend bringing some microtraxs to simul the upper pitches. We had a pretty angry thunderstorm roaring down on us and were super happy we brought the micros.

Eric's beat above^^^^ is spot on.

Get on this thing! Oct 19, 2016

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