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Routes in Chair Rock

Adrift with the Bajau T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Blues for Allah T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Destination Unknown T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fender Route (Water Music) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Low Pressure T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Stuff T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thin Ice T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Toot Suite aka Toot Suit T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Trails of Tropical Lotions T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: First led by Allen Hill. Major work by Scott Reynolds
Page Views: 846 total, 7/month
Shared By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

On the north side of Chair Rock. I did the first lead of this, but it was Scott "Zippy" Reynolds who really got the ball rolling on this. It was an old Dave Bell A4 route before Scott got it in his head to free climb it.

It's on the right side and is composed of triple cracks. Like a tiny Shield headwall. The crux is getting from the first crack to the second and is protected by a bolt.

Location

Rappel from bolts 120 feet.

Protection

Small stoppers. Very small TCU or ball nut for the moves getting to the bolt. The crack opens up and takes mid sized cams up high. There is a fixed angle above the crux.

Photos

Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
 
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
 
Jason, Dave Bell, who did the first ascent called it A3 I believe. When we freed it we added a bolt and a fixed pin. (with Dave's blessing) With those in place and a slider nut made it plenty safe. It'd be C1 now. I might have used a large RP as well. Remind me to tell you the story of when and how I became obsessed with free climbing it. Lets get out in the next couple of weeks. Oct 19, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Any guess as to what the modern day aid rating would be? Can it be done clean?

I don't know why but I actually enjoy aid climbing. Jul 18, 2008