PRINT: Rock Climb Westley, Los Alamos & White Rock

Westley

5.8, Sport, 32 ft (10 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 57 votes
FA: ???-(3/98)
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Gallows Edge > Main Wall

Description

A short but steeper face route between The Fire Swamp and Princess Buttercup. Follow the blunt, curving arete up a line of bolts. Seemingly more difficult than the rating suggests.

Location

Listed as route #6 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.

Protection

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with fixed steel lowering carabiners. *Please don't toprope off the fixed lowering carabiners.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Devin Shunk

5.8

Pretty nice route. For an interesting variation, stay to the left of the arete on the way up. Slightly overhung and more fun and a bit more challenging than the direct route, IMHO. Sep 19, 2007

Tom Johnson
Colorado Springs, or Santa Fe

I personally find this to be the hardest route (besides the .12) at Gallows edge. The sequence is not entirely obvious, and the steepness may get you a bit pumped if you're out of shape. Still, a pretty decent route. Jul 23, 2008

Devin Shunk

5.8

Just a heads up. The second bolt on this route has some of the rock missing from underneath it, exposing several threads. Not too tough of a climb to just clip it and go, but if you want some pro, a few different tri-cams will do nicely in this area. Mar 16, 2009

Daniel Trugman
Reno, NV

5.7

Who brings tricams to Gallows Edge??? Besides you of course :) Mar 19, 2009

Ken Hamel
Bristol, RI

Similar to Tom Johnson, I found this the hardest route I did, and I did every other climb in and around the grade, including As You Wish 5.9-, and found this harder then all of them. I liked it! Tried going out left first, and found that not appealing, down climbed and instead went straight up the bolts. Again, felt markedly harder then the other 5.8's. But maybe it was just me. Sep 28, 2019