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Hindu Kush

5.8, Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.1 from 105 votes
FA: Bob Mitchell, Dan Perry 1981
N Carolina > Ship Rock > Main Tier

Description

Hindu Kush is another classic Ship Rock moderate. A taste of North Carolina steep burl with absolutely gigantic holds!
Pitch 1: A couple of options. All variations funnel into the indimidating roof above. The standard follows the obvious, low-angle corner, which comes into the roof from the right, 5.8. The second (my favorite) starts left of the corner and climbs a two-bolt slab to the roof, which is 5.9. The final, which would make for a heady lead, starts directly beneath the roof in a gorgeous left-facing corner at .10+. After pulling a "topout" move onto the ledge above the roof, belay from bolts or rap off. 70'
Pitch 2: Head right to an obvious easy corner and wander up the path of least resistance, 5.8, or climb the roof directly off the belay and continue up a system of corners and bulges, 5.10a. Belay at the clifftop. 110'
NOTE: One can also traverse left to the second pitch of KB Capers.

Location

The route is just right of KB Capers. Look for a clean, left facing corner. This is the direct variation (5.10+). Just right is the slab variation (5.9). And just right of that is the standard corner (5.8).
To descend, rappel off the Boardwalk anchors.

Protection

A single rack should see you through any of the variations. A #4 Camalot protects the heel-hook/topout move onto the ledge on P. 1. It might be nice, if you're unfamiliar with heel-hooking and the mantle, techniques not common on 5.8 routes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

pulling the crux right below the anchors of the first pitch
[Hide Photo] pulling the crux right below the anchors of the first pitch
Matt Schneider showing you what not to do when attempting the crux on the 1st pitch of Hindu Kush.  Steve Bowling belaying.
[Hide Photo] Matt Schneider showing you what not to do when attempting the crux on the 1st pitch of Hindu Kush. Steve Bowling belaying.
5.9 balancy, reachy slab leading to the funky roof move!
[Hide Photo] 5.9 balancy, reachy slab leading to the funky roof move!
P1 of Hindu Kush (Original Start), 5.8.
[Hide Photo] P1 of Hindu Kush (Original Start), 5.8.
Steve Bowlin pulling the crux move near the top of the 1st pitch of Hindu Kush.
[Hide Photo] Steve Bowlin pulling the crux move near the top of the 1st pitch of Hindu Kush.
P1 5.9 bolted variation.  This is the two-bolt slab that meets up with the original line of Hindu Kush.  Fun, technical, and reachy.
[Hide Photo] P1 5.9 bolted variation. This is the two-bolt slab that meets up with the original line of Hindu Kush. Fun, technical, and reachy.
hindu kush
[Hide Photo] hindu kush

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
[Hide Comment] Some corrections: The route is to the right of KB Capers, not to the left. Some ball nutz would probably work very well on the original line. #4 Camalot not necessary, #3 works just as well, so does #2. Jun 6, 2011
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
[Hide Comment] Original line has a pretty long traverse, don't forget to protect your second. Wouldn't recommend bringing a hot date out there if your climbing it for the first time because your going to look pretty goofy pulling the crux right below the anchors of the first pitch. Smooth climbing and good views. Variations for the first and second pitch are both well worth it. Oct 4, 2011
Jonathan Dull
Boone, NC
 
[Hide Comment] A .5 Camalot protects your second, the placement is midway through the traverse (original start). Pulling the crux roof is the funkiest 5.8 move anywhere! Apr 16, 2014
kyle howe
Knoxville, TN
  5.8
[Hide Comment] My wife and I thought the p2 move into the "easy" corner was more of a challenge than the infamous p1 roof pull. It's an awkward and committing reach from under the roof. The guidebook has p2 as a 5.7, but I think this one move would startle a new trad climber hoping for an easy 5.7 pitch. Jul 25, 2016
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] That bolted slab start is super fun, but it's not 5.9. It's 5.8 at most. In fact, if the whole pitch was called 5.7 I wouldn't disagree. May 14, 2018
Benandstuff
Winston-Salem, NC
 
[Hide Comment] Russ, quit trying to sandbag people. The bolted slab is 5.9. There are some balancy, crimpy moves and you know it. And remember the mantle, I couldn't even pull it on my first go! I had to hangdog off the #5 I placed. Honestly, you are probably just getting better at climbing. May 15, 2018
Matt Westlake
Durham, NC
  5.8
[Hide Comment] The shorter you are the tougher the move from the bolt to the ledge is. If you can reach the ledge from the good holds it's a totally different thing, much easier. That said, it's a very safe fall if you blow it. May 15, 2018
Stephen McKinney
Columbia, SC
 
[Hide Comment] The bolted start is a bit balancy and crimpy, but the business starts once you’ve clipped the second bolt. It felt like a hard 5.8 move (or softer side of 5.9) to get to the ledge from the second bolt for me (6’1), but I’m sure my buddy (5’7) would agree on solid 5.9 rating for that sequence. Jun 23, 2018
Jill H.
Spartanburg, SC
5.9
[Hide Comment] I’m 5’1” and the bolted start to the first pitch is reachy for me. One move before first bolt and at second bolt I had to dyno for the left nubbin. Also I led P2 and went a little too far right after going around the roof and started to pull on a licheny boulder that moved significantly from my 100 pound body weight. I could see it easily coming down on its own and killing someone. Aug 17, 2018
ken johnstone
  5.8+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I have seen no significant comments about the original start.I looked at it, and thought no big deal, until I started climbing it...... Be aware that there is no gear until you reach the first little ledge...about 20 ft off the ground. You are just doing some careful balancing to get there, with no hand holds, and its fairly awkward. You blow it there and you are going to get carried out. I found a couple of moves on that flake to reach the big ledge fairly committing with quite small pro. My 5'4" GF who has led a ton of trad said that she felt this part was at least as difficult as any 5.8, and upper 2-3 moves to the ledge were very reachy on pretty small crimps. We both may have missed some critical hold...maybe. Bottom line the approach flake is no joke. Don't get all focused on the crux pull. There is also a really nice #2 placement directly above the move onto the big ledge above the flake that will protect your second if they blow it getting to the ledge. Just sling it long and the is minimal drag. A #2 Camelot does protect the "crux move", but its a reach to place it. This first pitch is significantly more difficult than anything on Boardwalk, and has a much higher risk factor for a significant ground fall. Second, and third pitch are fun, and route finding is pretty straight forward. I liked doing in three pitches, as you are closer to your second, and the route wanders a bit, and could get some real rope drag dong it in 2 pitches. I did take the second pitch to top of the "short vertical crack" (guidebook) Instead of the ledge above the face after the first corner starting the second pitch.. 5 Easy scramble to top from there. Oct 4, 2018