Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches,
Avg: 1.6 from 42
FA: Willie Crowther and Gardiner Perry, 1958
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
2019 Peregrine Closure
Wisecrack to Scary Area
Tree Preservation and Rappeling
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Just to the left of Beginner's Delight
lies this somewhat obscure route. You rarely see people on it, as you have Asphodel
to the left and a plethora of starred routes to the right.
P1: Aim for an obvious left-facing corner below a roof about 50' feet up. Step up and right onto the top of the block, then up to a long ledge. Find some gear, traverse left, and belay at its left end.
P2: Climb the corner, head up and left to another corner, then up to the GT ledge. There is a bolted belay anchor
on the GT ledge.
P3: Finish up the left-facing corner on the left.
You may find the first 40' or so of P1 to be more runout than you'd like, although the roof has good protection (and look for a hidden fixed pin).
P2 & 3: fairly straight-forward climbing, typical Gunks. These two pitches go at a true 5.3, no sand to be found, and protect at around PG; the cruxes of both pitches protect well.
Approximately 50 feet left of Beginner's Delight
, atop a ledge with a 3rd/4th class scramble up a ramp to a large tree about 20 feet off the ground. You actually share the 2nd pitch belay ledge with Beginner's Delight; BD is on the right, BL is on the left.
Descent: Rappel down the Beginner's Delight rap stations.
Ben Hoste on pitch 2 of Blueberry Ledges. Photo by Ryan Jones.
The third pitch...pretty nice climbing.