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Routes in Sweet Pain Wall

A-Cute Pain T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gambler, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Glitter Grind Sister S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Glitter Gulch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lee Press On S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pain Relief S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pain in the Neck S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sister of Pain S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slave to the Grind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sour Pain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sweet Pain S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown New Route S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Guys from Colorado, 1991
Page Views: 4,453 total, 34/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Apr 1, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Immediately right of Glitter Gulch, Slave to the Grind starts with a long reach to a rail. Steep face climbing with a tricky crux around the third bolt. Climbing eases towards the top. Although given an 11b rating in the Brock guidebook, I felt it to be closer to 11c.

Protection

7 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

John RB
Superior, CO
  5.11b
John RB   Superior, CO
  5.11b
Sent this 5th try in 1998. Probably cheating, but you can get a full rest halfway up if you traverse right on the ledge. I didn't do this, but my partner took full advantage, traversed WAY right and took a 10 min break before doing the upper section. Doing this perhaps downgrades the difficulty to 11a. Nov 6, 2017
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Little pumpy, and super fun! Nov 28, 2016
RJ Ryan
Cambridge, MA
 
RJ Ryan   Cambridge, MA
 
totally dry in pouring rain Nov 20, 2016
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Tricky Crux down low leads to a pump fest. Definitely well described as a harder, more legit 5.11 version of Glitter Gulch and almost equally as fun. May 26, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
On jan 25th, 2014, the ASCA added mussy hooks to this anchor to facilitate cleaning and lowering. Jan 25, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
Done this one dozens of times over the years with beta that always felt .11c, watched my friend do it today, and after trying his beta, it felt .11a-ish at the lower crux. The upper wall keeps the grade at about .11b.

This route and Sister of Pain are easily the best routes on the wall. Nov 25, 2012
Wally
Denver
  5.11b
Wally   Denver
  5.11b
Great line! Oct 23, 2012
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
  5.11b
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
  5.11b
Like a harder version of Glitter Gulch. Fairly sustained, the climb just gets harder as you go up and the wall tips back. The holds are all fairly good if you can get the correct body position; like Glitter Gulch the abundance of large feet will save you from the pump! Apr 1, 2012