Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Weeks, Harry Daley 1960
Page Views: 11,692 total · 81/month
Shared By: Todd Grier on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Great relaxed climb. Fun roof


Scramble up to the first ledge by the dead tree. Next, move left along the ledge until you see some nice slab/scramble moves on better rock closer to the base of the climb.

Also, for descent, you can rappel on two 60 meter ropes from the first anchors down to that first ledge. Traverse west to the dead tree and scramble down.

With a 70m rope, you can link the pitches and still have rope to spare at the anchors. Two single-rope raps with a 70m will get you down, but just barely with rope stretch on P2.


1-2 up to 3.5", depending on your ability
An absolutely brilliant route! One of those that reminds you why you started climbing in the first place! May 4, 2007
Excellent description! Jan 5, 2008
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
Often times people belay at the bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch. It is better to go up the easy ramp to the base of the roof near the dead tree and belay instead. Doing this frees up that anchor for toproping the bolted route to the left of harry daley, and it also allows people to rap from the anchor on the way down from the top of harry daley. Mar 2, 2008
Should be on everyones moderate crack ticklist. The wall above seems to call to you and you will want to keep going... Aug 7, 2008
Tim Camuti
Placerville, CA
Tim Camuti   Placerville, CA
The variety of cracks- fingers, hands, fists, a traverse, all in short sections of 20 feet or so,- and the roof pull on solid pro and jams make this route an absolute joy. At two short pitches it is not too much of a commitment, either, short enough to keep things fun and enjoyable. A great climb! Belaying from the tree is recommended, even comfortable.
Two ropes to rappel, 60m ropes will get you down to the first 3rd class bench from the chain anchors. The 10b slab climb to the left of the route (Variation on a Theme) is an enjoyable and challenging toprope from same anchors. Jul 30, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Second pitch is a lot of fun.

"Class 3" approach could mess with some people's heads, especially the descent. Sep 20, 2009
San Jose, CA
rhyang   San Jose, CA
Rapped with two 60m ropes. From the first bolt anchor these got us to a ledge about 20' below the starting ledge, which made the descent more casual .. class 2-ish. If the initial scrambling wigs you out there are usually rap slings off a bush on the right side of the starting ledge. May 10, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
One of my favorites on the Apron. The second pitch is a classic at the 5.7 level. A very well protected moderate" climb. Mar 15, 2011
Justin Peacock
Concord, CA
Justin Peacock   Concord, CA
So good. The traverse is easy but a little scary for the "traverse-adverse" like myself. Jan 8, 2012
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
Classic line, really glad we did this one. I agree, though, that last section of the approach around the base blocks felt a bit sketchy for Class 3. Might be easier to keep left a bit at the rock base, and use switchbacks until you're almost directly under the start of the climb.

For reference, I'm 6' and a solid 5.7/5.8 leader with about 100 pitches of trad under my belt all-time.

Definitely felt like the crux was the leftward traverse on P1. Analyze where your pro will be on this section ahead of time, as it's a critical spot to protect you and your follower and there aren't a ton of placement options. Climbing this in April, though our route was dry, the friction feet were still not 100% dry on the rock, making this section feel committing. That said, I committed and had no problem getting through it traversing hands on the small crack and using friction feet on the face. I later saw another climber put feet in the crack and use undercling hands in the same crack as well for this part, which looks like it might have felt easier (though probably would have made the pro more awkward).

After the traverse on P1, if you've got big hands you'll be treated to an all-too-short splitter crack, followed by the aforementioned tree belay (good idea).

For P2, I found the roof move right above the tree to be easy with my big hand jams, but my 5'2" female partner with small hands had quite a bit more difficulty with it. In either case, it's short and the rest of the climb offers nice slab moves and great pro opportunities. Apr 24, 2012
I find the easiest way to do the traverse on the first pitch is to plug in a solid piece and then stand up on the little ledge. Walk across it. Hands on the blank face for balance. It's only a few moves left and there are big pockets for your feet. Forget the pro! Just go for it. It's easy and it would be scarier having to stop and place gear.
Also, regarding the above comment about the second pitch. I would say that after the roof the rest of the climb offers sweet 5.7/5.8 crack climbing. Not much slab.
I've never thought the 3rd class approach was any big deal. Pretty standard stuff. Apr 24, 2012
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
Like a stepped-up version of The Grack. I thought the opening moves were the crux. May 8, 2012
Weston L
Climbed this last October. Fun cruise, don't miss out on the short but sweet Chouinard Crack after P1 (it's the fun-looking thing that goes left, very easy and very fun). Casual cruise, with some entertainment provided on the section where you walk the crack. Just laugh while you're up there and think of it like walking the plank, only different.

Have fun May 24, 2012
Gargano   Arizona
Two single-rope raps with a 70m will get you down. Just barely with stretch on P2. Oct 29, 2012
With a 70m rope, you can link the pitches and I still had some rope to spare at the anchors. Apr 15, 2013
We approached from the right into the rotten corner up to the bush/tree with tat. I do not recommend this, despite what supertopo shows. Here's a better route: scramble up to the first ledge by the dead tree. Next, move left along the ledge until you see some nice slab/scramble moves on better rock closer to the base of the climb.

Also, for descent, you can rappel on two 60 meter ropes from the first anchors down to that first ledge. Traverse west to the dead tree and scramble down. Oct 23, 2013
Lucian G.
Oakland, CA
Lucian G.   Oakland, CA
P1 was great! Unfortunately I had to bail from the end of it because it was getting dark.

As some others mentioned, I'd recommend plugging a cam into the traverse crack before stepping into it. It's pretty easy to stand on it and shimmy across, but it'd be awkward to place gear once you've stood already. I didn't think about this beforehand, and it felt sketchy to bend down and do it once I was on the ledge, so I ended up running it out to the anchor to avoid rope drag, which was a very stupid decision in retrospect. Jan 21, 2014
San Francisco, CA
jpvandever   San Francisco, CA
Belayed at bolted anchors on a ledge below the dead tree. Can rap from top of P2 with a single 70m, making two rappels. there is an intermediate bolted anchor with rings about 10 ft to the right of the dead tree. Oct 29, 2016
Brianna Chrisman
Brianna Chrisman   Stanford
My first 5.8 in the valley! First pitch requires some thinking, deciding whether or not to put gear or your fingers into each pin scar (not room for both!. Offset cams/nuts would be good for this. Second pitch is super fun with a cool (and well protected) roof move, and some sweet jamming above that. So so fun. We were able to rap down onto the big ledge with a 70m and then downclimb the gully to get back to the trail. May 30, 2017
Mike Horan
San Francisco, CA
Mike Horan   San Francisco, CA
Climbed it with Brianna ^. Crux is the first 20-30 feet of the climb. Bring pro suitable for pin scars for that section. I found the traverse unprotectable. Set a bomber cam before starting it and then walk your feet along the horizontal crack.

70m will get you all the way down from the top of pitch 2. Jun 1, 2017
Cody Vann
Cody Vann   Boulder
This route scared me however I did the route as a hand traverse while trying to plu4 C4 cams into the pin scars (which didn't work too well) which slowed down by progress on the traverse considerably. I was wondering if most people use it as a foot traverse or hand traverse? Oct 22, 2017