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Routes in Half Dome

Autobahn T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Blondike T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Deuceldike T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Eye in the Sky T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Growing Up T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c A0
Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1
Snake Dike T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Southwest Face, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Hoofers T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 1400 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: Charles Cole, John Middendorf, and Rusty Reno, 1985
Page Views: 9,826 total, 75/month
Shared By: Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Cave approach, crazy run outs, 1,500 feet of face climbing, toiling up and over Half Dome -- Autobahn is a route that takes you places.

I worked on this route with Charles Cole in March 1985, and as I look back on more than thirty years of climbing, lots of first ascents, and countless trips to the crags, I count those days as among the best. We camped out in the improbable cave with fires on long, cold March nights. We pushed a line I never imagined could possibly go. We had to ration our bolts, and we both tested our mental limits. Eventually, we made the big push, and after putting in some taxing bolts, we reached the final headwall. The sun was setting. We rapped. My plane left for the East Coast the next day. Charles recruited John Middendorf to work the crux moves and finish the route. And it was done. The first new route on the South Face of Half Dome since Warren Harding and Galen Rowell.

As you approach Snake Dike, a large piece of rock leans against the south face of Half Dome, forming a dark cave. Crawl through and onto a traverse ledge that narrows. The route continues right past some bolts to a belay ledge. The second pitch takes a left leaning line to gain the very obvious quartzite dike that shoots up the face. Pitch three is admittedly insane. Grasp the dike and climb it (easy) to a bolt 75 feet above the belay -- you can't see it from the belay, but it really is there. As I recall, Charles led this pitch. He kept hoping that the next move would reveal a horn to sling (as is the case on the Snake Dike). There is a hole for a large cam higher up (3"). Pitch four continues up the dike, as does pitch five. Pitch six finishes the dike and begins the upper face climbing. Pitch seven works its way upwards, past bolts that are very widely spaced (bolt rationing!). Pitch eight continues with thin face. Pitch nine works is way up a ramp. Pitch ten tackles a hollow sounding friction slab. My recollection is that I pushed the lead on this pitch, and the one bolt on the friction slab is a unpleasantly far from the belay. Sorry. Time was running out, and my shoulder was burning from pounding the bolts on pitch eight. Pitch eleven surmounts the crux overlaps -- hard but well protected. Pitch eleven works its way up a roughly surfaced face. From the final belay, front point up the low angle slabs to the top of Half Dome.

Location

The two prominent, parallel dikes on the western margin of the south face of Half Dome are very obvious. Autobahn takes the right dike.

Protection

Take a light rack to supplement quick draws.

Photos

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Ben Lepesant  
 
this route is really good. the start is easy to find. it's a good idea to practice some slab climbing in TM beforehand. we did the first 8 pitches. your feet will hurt, so bring comfy shoes...
the bolts are perfect. the climbing is mentally tiring and runout. The 5.8 is probably R/X, the 5.10 is alright but still heady.
no single bolt belays without other gear on the first 8 pitches .. Feb 12, 2015
ToreL  
I did this route late october '11. The few bolts are good. Except from third- and pitch prior to crux a fall will not hurt. The crux is very crimpy - after some blood shed we built a body pyramid as this is not 'free french able'. Pitches are 40-50m. A true Traditionalist route! Jul 16, 2012
Ben Lepesant  
 
the bolts have been replaced according to a supertopo thread.
supertopo.com/climbing/thre…
does anyone have pitch lengths? Feb 15, 2011
Rusty Reno  
 
I want to reinforce John Strand's comments. Don't be freaked out. This route was done in the 1980s! What seemed crazy to us isn't all that bad today. Autobahn is one of the classic routes in its grade, sustained and worth doing, but by no means stupid. I've done Greasy but Groovey, as well as Shakey Flakes. Both are more committing than Autobahn. Sep 1, 2010
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Just Classic ! About as good as a climb can be. The runouts are not to bad and the crux is well geared. set of wires and some cams to #3 Jan 30, 2010
Stu Ritchie
Denver
Stu Ritchie   Denver
I climbed this route in the 80's with Eric Goukas. I recall it being very sustained and excellent! Back in those days, it was all the rage to climb using a 2" tubular swami belt and no leg loops! I shudder to think what would have happened if one of us were to have taken a long fall! As I think back, this route was quite demanding and it was only through the supreme confidence and drive of Eric that we succeeded in making what we believed to be the 5th ascent. Unfortunately, Eric was to die two days later while trying to complete the first continuous, free ascent of Power Point. Apr 8, 2009
Rusty Reno  
 
I'm not convinced the Charles is right. We were bold, but not stupid. If there are single bolts, then it must be possible to get in a piece of gear as well. But we did put in quarter inch bolts, and it has been more than twenty years for them to rust up there. I recall doing routes in New Hampshire ages ago and clipping twenty (maybe only fifteen) year old quarter inch bolts and feeling that they looked pretty darn old and rusty. The California climate is kinder to metal, but there is good reason to approach this route with an appropriate caution. Nov 29, 2007