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Shaky Flakes

5.11a R, Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Ken Bishop, Edd Kuropat, Tom Carter, Mark McPherran, 1972
California > Yosemite Nation… > Yosemite Valley > Royal Arches Area > Royal Arches
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This 1970s classic is a devious line that exploits as many weaknesses as possible on the left side of the large apron that forms the Terrace Area. The first pitch is typical of the entire route. Bolts are minimal, and the leader must puzzle out the zigs and zags of the route.

I did the route with Bruce Dicks more than ten years ago on a brilliant Thanksgiving weekend visit to the Valley, and I cannot provide a pitch-by-pitch description. Consult a topo, and follow the natural weaknesses of the rock. But I do remember that Shaky Flakes is a mental challenge. The second pitch is very committing, and the upper pitiches, while not as difficult, involve long runouts. But be confident. If you can lead the first pitch, then you are good to go. The first bolt is VERY high; nothing you face above is more dangerous.

In my opinion, along with Greasy but Groovy, Shaky Flakes should be on the tick list of any serious Yosemite Climber. It pushed the limits in its day.

Location

Shaky Flakes begins twenty feet to the right of the far west end of the low angle rock apron below the Royal Arches Terraces.

Protection

Be sure to take a light rack of small stoppers and cams.

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[Hide Comment] FA: Chris Falkenstein, Ken Bishop, Edd Kuropat, Tom Carter, Mark McPherran, [not McPheron], 1972

retrieved from: stanford.edu/~clint/yos/YOS… Mar 7, 2012