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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Charles Cole and Rusty Reno, 1987
Page Views: 1,154 total, 9/month
Shared By: Rusty Reno on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Adrenaline is a lovely, 50 foot thin crack, but it jogs out right once the crack ends. Charles Cole and I decided that the route would be more elegant if it shot straight up the crag. So we pushed a line that pretty much runs directly from the Adrenaline crack up to the belay at the top of the second pitch of Serenity Crack. The first pitch ascends Adrenaline, then uses a some good holds to launch out into the void of thin face above. We placed a knifeblade in the thin crack ten or so feet above Adrenaline. (It's no longer there -- a bolt would have been better, I guess, but we were broke and were trying to save money on hangers.) Some extreme face moves past a bolt take the leader to easier ground and then a comfortable belay. An easier second pitch links up with Serenity Crack by the tree at the top of the second pitch.

These days the route seems to be neglected. Lots of folks use the belay at the top of the first pitch as a rap point. I'll admit that, like most of the routes I did with Charles Cole in the 1980s, there are some runouts that can discourage. I can't say that Endorphine is a "must do" route, but if you are ticking off the old-school 5.11 face routes in the Valley, then it's worth putting this one on your list.

Location

Endorphine shares the first 40 feet with Adrenaline.

Protection

Don't forget that knifeblade.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
There was no extension when I led "Adrenaline" back in '81. The initial tips crack leading to the rap station is quite severe, and the crux is protected by as many tiny brass/steel nuts as you can plug in...no cams here Mates!
The stance above the crux is a slow ooze, and for a long time I attempted to get gear in the grove-thing I was laybacking, but nothing would go in. The image is at that "rest". Perhaps some form of modern offset camming widget would work, but I had nothing of the sort back then. Eventually, I just looked at those tiny nuts well below my feet, took a dry swallow, chalked it up and laid into that seam, planting my feet like cement on the slab, and yarded gorilla-style up to the nest of slings, knowing -for sure- if I fell, there was potential for hitting the ground.
Many veteran Yosemite climbers have told me that the thing is a TR, that it rarely gets led...there's a reason for that.
So, if you are up to the grade, then I'd recommend sussing out the pro on rappel -first- and have that doo-hicky ready to go, 'cuz you'll be wanting it for that last 5.10 section to the anchors. Apr 1, 2015