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Skin The Cat

5.12a, Trad,  Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
FA: Ward Smith 7/01
New Hampshire > Rumney > Kennel Wall

Description

It's a trad climb in a sport climber's paradise, so needless to say it sees few ascents, but it is in fact a very cool climb. A short, stout crux on good gear. Once through the hard part, it eases up on the way to the chains. If you like hard crack climbing, why not bring a small rack up and fire this one.

Start on the slab, after 10 feet or so you get to the roof throw in some good gear (I put in a cam and a big nut), jam out the short roof, and gain a great hand jam over the lip. At this point, being creative, wedging your body in the corner, and using interesting foot work will get you where you want to be. The rest of the route is about 5.9 maybe, and is protected with small cams and nuts.

Location

On the left side of the crag, look for the nice crack out the short roof....

Protection

Trad gear to an anchor.... I found nuts and TCUs to be most useful....

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bonus photo, taking the sideways fall out of the crux. Kind of a hard fall because there is very little rope out, but the nut is definitely bomb proof.
[Hide Photo] Bonus photo, taking the sideways fall out of the crux. Kind of a hard fall because there is very little rope out, but the nut is definitely bomb proof.
Clipping into the chains
[Hide Photo] Clipping into the chains
Pretty much in the clear, cruising up the 5.9- portion protected by half decent small wires.
[Hide Photo] Pretty much in the clear, cruising up the 5.9- portion protected by half decent small wires.
Continuing up the horizontal chimney, maybe whimpering slightly.
[Hide Photo] Continuing up the horizontal chimney, maybe whimpering slightly.
Getting horizontal and realizing it is far from over.
[Hide Photo] Getting horizontal and realizing it is far from over.
Starting up it
[Hide Photo] Starting up it

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Lee do you remember what size cam protects the crux? Feb 20, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] i think i used an orange tcu below the roof and a good sized nut just over it.... it has however been a long time since i was on it so i cant promise... Feb 21, 2011
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] At least it gives me an idea of the size, i am looking forward to getting on it this year =) Feb 22, 2011
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] As I remember it, yes, you place a solid piece or 2 and pull a boulder problem that's in the v4 range... It has been a long time but i remember some contortion and funky footwork... I should re visit this one sometime... Jun 8, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Do me a favor Eli and give it a scrub. I also want to climb it this summer. I hope it's as good as the other 12a trad at the Prudential. I don't have enough balls to lead it. I did it top rope. Jun 8, 2015
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I tried it a couple of years ago and found it difficult to grab the hold out of the overhang. This past week end, I made it so easy. Kneebar, handjam then it's all over. Cool boulder problem. Too bad it's so short. Jun 14, 2016