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Routes in Kennel Wall

Bad Dog Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Big Angler, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dog Biscuit S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dog Star S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
F* *king the Dog S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Giganthopicicus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Give a Dog a Bone T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
I'm Talking to The Dog S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ian's Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Junkyard Dog S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Puppy Love S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skin The Cat T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sparking Poodles S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walking the Dog T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
You Dirty Dog S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Zacker Cracker T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Ward Smith 7/01
Page Views: 1,048 total, 8/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 31, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

It's a trad climb in a sport climber's paradise, so needless to say it sees few ascents, but it is in fact a very cool climb. A short, stout crux on good gear. Once through the hard part, it eases up on the way to the chains. If you like hard crack climbing, why not bring a small rack up and fire this one.

Start on the slab, after 10 feet or so you get to the roof throw in some good gear (I put in a cam and a big nut), jam out the short roof, and gain a great hand jam over the lip. At this point, being creative, wedging your body in the corner, and using interesting foot work will get you where you want to be. The rest of the route is about 5.9 maybe, and is protected with small cams and nuts.

Location

On the left side of the crag, look for the nice crack out the short roof....

Protection

Trad gear to an anchor.... I found nuts and TCUs to be most useful....
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
I tried it a couple of years ago and found it difficult to grab the hold out of the overhang. This past week end, I made it so easy. Kneebar, handjam then it's all over. Cool boulder problem. Too bad it's so short. Jun 14, 2016
Eric Leclerc
Montreal
  5.12a
Eric Leclerc   Montreal
  5.12a
Do me a favor Eli and give it a scrub. I also want to climb it this summer. I hope it's as good as the other 12a trad at the Prudential. I don't have enough balls to lead it. I did it top rope. Jun 8, 2015
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
As I remember it, yes, you place a solid piece or 2 and pull a boulder problem that's in the v4 range... It has been a long time but i remember some contortion and funky footwork... I should re visit this one sometime... Jun 8, 2015
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
At least it gives me an idea of the size, i am looking forward to getting on it this year =) Feb 22, 2011
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i think i used an orange tcu below the roof and a good sized nut just over it.... it has however been a long time since i was on it so i cant promise... Feb 21, 2011
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Lee do you remember what size cam protects the crux? Feb 20, 2011