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Skinny Puppy
5.11a/b,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
FA: Jim Howe, Jason Keith
Utah
> Southeast Utah
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Space Tower Area
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route is slighly overhanging with a complete variety pack of climbing along its 180'.
A short chossy approach pitch (5.7)leads to a ledge with a bolted station.
Pitch 2-- At the bolted belay, a hand crack arches right to face moves to enter a long clean crack which is followed to near its end where a long span(really long) to a crack (11-) where it reaches a bolted belay at a stance.
Pitch 3 --off the belay a few OW and fist moves climb past a good bolt and continue into the clean bombay and flared chimney/slot with fingers/face moves past a bolt. (11-) Above the crack widens enough to take a #4.5 or larger old style camalot near the exit. Continue up the corner to rappel anchors in a nice overhanging alcove below the top of the block
Descent:: a double rope rappel is needed to reach the ground... bring a tag line! (pitch 2 belay anchors are likely unreachable from the overhanging rappel)
Location
This route is NOT on Space tower but is around the corner to the left. This overhanging block with a gash(the Maw) is visible from the cattleguard/fenceline just past the ice cream parlor. Anchors are visible.
Protection
good sized desert rack from 0.4- #5 camalots
(triples in #1-#3.5 , two #4 )
[Hide Photo] Skinny Puppy, pitch two, Jason Keith leading up to the "Maw"
Salt Lake City