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Routes in Point of Moab

Dead Sea Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1+
Variation to DSR T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A2
Type: Trad, Aid, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Harvey Carter & Tim Jennings, 1967
Page Views: 826 total · 6/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The route starts on the south east side of the tower, look for the obvious bolts.


Pitch 1-
Climb a bolt ladder to a crack that deteriorates the higher you get. Pass and old anchor and continue on a better crack to a great belay ledge. (5.9 A1+, 130')

Pitch 2-
Climb the obvious crack above the belay to the notch. (look for anchors on the right side of the notch)(5.10, 50')

Pitch 3-
This is not really a pitch, but move your belay to the notch on the far side of the tower. (4th class)

Pitch 4-
Climb mixed free and aid, over a roof to a bolt ladder and on to the summit. (5.9 C1, 170')

Rappel from the summit to the top of pitch 2, then down the route.


Double set of cams, stoppers, I hammered a single angle in pitch 1, but it should go clean without to much trouble.


paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
ALT frog (aka frog bypass). i bailed on the first pitch. couldn't pull it. on 9/28/11 the wife and i continued on the approach trail all the way around the point to the northern most notch (second, as viewed from town). short scramble up, head back south to slabs and angle down right heading for a road. stayed on road for a short time then left to notch of frog. did the 4th class pitch unroped in hiking boots (a little sketchy, especially on the down climb). sat at the base of pitch 4 with binoculars and did not see a bolt ladder. the beginning roof part ( in photo ) looks good. could see 3 old bolts with large hangers high up. did i miss the "bolt ladder"? any body got beta on pitch 4? Sep 29, 2011
paul bucher
moab, utah
paul bucher   moab, utah
toped out yesterday thanks to sam lightner. thanks sam. one of the best views of any climb in the area. bomber anchors on top Jan 28, 2012

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