Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA-Jimmy Dunn and Doug Snively, 1973. FFA-Jeff Achey and Chip Chace, 1981.
Page Views: 6,627 total · 41/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Location

Start up the obvious dihedral on the left side of the south face.

Description

Pitch 1-
Climb up broken rock to better rock, stem up corner past 2 drilled pins. Mantle and follow a finger crack to a good belay ledge. There are no anchors on top of pitch 1, Belay takes yellow Aliens (5.11).

Pitch 2-
Lieback strenuous thin crack (5.11) to a short OW/Chimney (5.8). Exit the chimney and traverse up and right to a bolted belay.

Pitch 3-
This is the business pitch. Climb the corner above the belay past a drilled pin, then traverse right on a ledge, to a poorly protected, crux move(solid 5.11). If you fell you would land on the ledge. Once above the crux, climb 5.7 past 2 pins to the summit.

Descent-
Rappel off the Northeast side of the tower. One 200' rappel got us to the ground, but we passed anchors on the way down.

Protection

set of stoppers
1xblack and blue Aliens
2xgreen Alien
5xyellow Alien
3x.5&.75 Camalot
3x1,2,3 Camalot
1xold 3.5 Camalot

Photos