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Routes in Zeus

Northeast Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Sisyphus T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: FA-Jimmy Dunn and Doug Snively, 1973. FFA-Jeff Achey and Chip Chace, 1981.
Page Views: 5,285 total, 41/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Location

Start up the obvious dihedral on the left side of the south face.

Description

Pitch 1-
Climb up broken rock to better rock, stem up corner past 2 drilled pins. Mantle and follow a finger crack to a good belay ledge. There are no anchors on top of pitch 1, Belay takes yellow Aliens (5.11).

Pitch 2-
Lieback strenuous thin crack (5.11) to a short OW/Chimney (5.8). Exit the chimney and traverse up and right to a bolted belay.

Pitch 3-
This is the business pitch. Climb the corner above the belay past a drilled pin, then traverse right on a ledge, to a poorly protected, crux move(solid 5.11). If you fell you would land on the ledge. Once above the crux, climb 5.7 past 2 pins to the summit.

Descent-
Rappel off the Northeast side of the tower. One 200' rappel got us to the ground, but we passed anchors on the way down.

Protection

set of stoppers
1xblack and blue Aliens
2xgreen Alien
5xyellow Alien
3x.5&.75 Camalot
3x1,2,3 Camalot
1xold 3.5 Camalot
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Great route. Crux isn't super scary, but it is runout. I have a very detailed pitch by pitch beta description if you want it. PM me. Mar 15, 2015
jakobi
moab, utah
  5.11 R
jakobi   moab, utah
  5.11 R
I'd second everything Steven said regarding gear, but I found the R rating was justified on the final pitch; if you fall doing the crux move you'll most likely hit the ledge, you probably wouldn't be seriously hurt but there you go. For those up to the challenge this is one of the great tower routes in the Moab area! Oct 22, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11
The gear beta is way off when it comes to the #1 through #3 Camalots, you only need one of each no matter what your climbing ability is and the 3.5 isn't needed either. An extra Blue Alien wouldn't be a bad idea though. I also wouldn't give any of the pitches an R rating, especially the 3rd. Finally it is possible to rap off with one rope but I would bring some webbing to back up the anchors. Oct 22, 2013
There are 2 fixed nuts and a knot (double overhand I reckon) for the first pitch belay although yellow aliens are still a good idea to back these up. gets pretty thin off that belay Apr 23, 2012
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
 
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
 
I would call this one of the best tower routes I've done. THe climbing is engaging and thought provoking. However, it could be given the R rating in a number of places. If you find the first pitch a bit heady, you might want to bail. It gets more dangerous as you go higher.

We accidently ran the second and third pitches together as I never found the bolted belay mentioned in the description...it's probably my fault as I do this a lot. Anyway, using lots of runners I was able to mitigate the rope drag. I did have to unclip the crux piece at my foot after doing the big move (it's a reach).

The ledge you would hit in the crux is more of a big sloping stance than a square cut ledge. If you jumped out, you might miss it.

The gear list here is perfect, but bring lots of runners. Apr 8, 2007
Ben Kiessel  
 
Check out Brad's website for a trip report and great photos.
piquaclimber.com/past/zeusa… Mar 30, 2007