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Black Sabbath

5.11, Trad, 4 pitches,  Avg: 3 from 7 votes
FA: FFA - Eric Decaria, Brad Barlage - Nov 18-19, 1995
Utah > Southeast Utah > Castle Valley > Sister Superior Group
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: See this facebook.com/note.php?note_… from the Friends of Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

I have also seen this route called "Savior". Not sure which is accurate.

Pitch 1 - Start by climbing a chimney and then traverse right on large ledge. Belay off gear. (5.7)

Pitch 2 - Follow crack from the ledge. This crack bends up and left. There is an old bolt ladder on the right. Hanging belay from bolted anchor. (5.11)

Pitch 3 - Do a face traverse to the left and climb a crack that goes from tight hands - hands - offwidth - chimney. Belay on ledge from bolts. (5.10)

Pitch 4 - Same finish as Jah Man. Climb the face past bolts to the summit. (5.9)

Descent - Rappel Jah Man.

Location

The route starts on the north face of Sister Superior. Head around the corner from Jah Man. It is just past a bolted line and the chimney is hard to miss.

Protection

Aliens - (1)Blue,(1)Green,(3)Yellow
Camalots - (3).5-1, (2)2-3, (1)4
Extra long runners

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 2 and Pitch 3.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 and Pitch 3.
Topo
[Hide Photo] Topo
Looking up the route. The chimney start is out of the photo to the bottom-left.
[Hide Photo] Looking up the route. The chimney start is out of the photo to the bottom-left.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott McLeod
 
[Hide Comment] This route deserves a bit more credit, and traffic, than its given. It is splitter! We got on it as an alternative to Jah Man because it was so crowded, and it turned out to be amazing.

Also, if you want to get straight to the business, consider the direct start. We didn't do the chimney and traverse in, we just came straight in from below. It is very straight forward, 5.7 or something. We were hustling so we linked all the way up to the hanging belay in a single pitch, with with no drag, but I didn't place any gear on the approach pitch. May 12, 2014
carter jensen
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
[Hide Comment] I'd say pitch two is as good as any I've done in Castle Valley. We used a new #4 camalot on pitch 3 and found one constriction in the crack where it worked, barely. I'd probably bring an old #4 or new #5 if I were to do it again. May 12, 2014
Nick Fowler
Mount Pleasant, UT
 
[Hide Comment] did this route saturday, so sick! one of the better tower routes I've done around moab. 0.3, 0.4, 3x0.5, 3x0.75, 2x1 (or 3x1 and 2x.75), 2x2, 1x3, 1x4 can sow it up. easily summit in 2 pitches. the anchor at end of the 11 has two newish bolts. Apr 15, 2018