Blue Balls
5.10b X,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
FA: unknown
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (l) Christian B…
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This route is down-right dangerous for the leader. With virtually no pro for the first 30 feet, any mistake will put you in the hospital or worse. However, the route is easily toproped (via Hesitation Blues), and makes an excellent jaunt on a hot day when shade is desired.
The route begins with easy climbing to a shallow crack where the first worthless #1 TCU placement is found. Another ten feet up on steadily shrinking crimps leads to a worthless RP placement, and a horizontal pocket that looks like it might take a cam, but probably won't. Next is the crux: step up high with the left foot, then rock-over onto the foot using a good sidepull in the seam. Cross your right hand over to a heavily chalked flake hold. From here you can place the first piece of gear that might arrest a fall.
From here continue with relative ease into the upper bit of Hesitation Blues and its plentiful gear placements.
Location
Begin 10 feet right of Hesitation Blues, (and 20 feet right of Ring of Fire) in the "Toy Blocks" alley.
Protection
If leading, bring at least #3, 4, 5, & 6 RPs, 0-2 TCUs, 2 x .5 Camalot and one #1, #2 Camalot. 2 Bolt chain anchor.