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Routes in Voodoo Wall

Bat Wings and Blood S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bruja T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chimney-a-Go-Go T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goblin Roof S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Harry's Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holler, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Malfoy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Merlin TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sceptre, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snape S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Voodoo Highway S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch Hunt S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witches' Brew S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Witching Hour TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Dean Goolsby
Page Views: 145 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 27, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the featured face past edges, side-pulls to a thinner section (crux) just before the last bolt. Bolted anchor, with an easy down-climb about 20' to the left.

Location

This short route climbs the right side of a large block just left of The Sceptre.

Protection

3 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

- No Photos -
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
brucy...there are other venues to handle your numerous complains. Perhaps take Chris's and Adam's suggestions to heart and do the community a service by adding whatever hardware you deem appropriate to bring the anchor up to your standard. Feb 20, 2017
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Please feel free to add whatever hardware you deem appropriate, thank you Brucy. Dec 12, 2016
brucy  
Interesting logic.

One needs to "downclimb" to get off this route?! Wow, this makes real sense:
the first ascentionist couldn't be bothered to set the route up w/
descending hardware. Also, if a similiarly equipped route is encountered,
then one must have the wherewithal- in the form of proper equipment- to "fix"
the problem. If not, I guess he has no business reporting it- does he? Real class, guys. Dec 11, 2016
Did you leave any lowering hardware to improve it? May 6, 2016
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
brucy wrote: Am curious why so many Goolsby routes are set up like this one w/ no easy or safe way to descend.
Did you notice in the route description that there's an easy down-climb from this route? May 6, 2016
brucy  
This route has, as of 5/16, no lowering hardware. If one wishes to do this route, bring quick links or leaver biners. Am curious why so many Goolsby routes are set up like this one w/ no easy or safe way to descend. May 6, 2016