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Petie's Spare Rib
5.5 PG13,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.2 from 16
votes
FA: Doug Kerr and Norton Smithe, 1952
New York
> Gunks
> Sky Top
Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb
LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007.
Details
If you want to legally climb at Sky Top, you have to be guided. Alpine Endeavors is contracted by the Mountain House to be the only guide service legally allowed to guide at Sky Top. This might seem completely unfair, but it's their sandbox - so, it's their rules. See
mohonk.com/activities/overn… and
mohonkmountainguides.com/ for more information.
Security patrols are in place to to prevent unauthorized access to the area. There will also be other methods used to confirm and prevent unauthorized access.
Regardless, this is a huge step in the uphill battle to win public climbing access back.
Description
A wonderful route that zig-zags back and forth over an arete, with thin, facey moves and not too many of the classic Gunks jugs. I found the route rather sustained, but there is a very obvious crux section above gear. This route is not a good one for a 5.5 leader; it's devious, with questionable footholds and lots of smearing throughout. In the guidebook at 5.4 PG***, I'd give it a 5.5.
Protection
Standard Gunks rack up to #3 Camalot. Pro is PG. There is a bolted rappel anchor on the face to the left of the arete. A single 60m rope works, but is close.
Irvine, CA
Aug 7, 2012
North Conway, NH