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Petie's Spare Rib

5.5 PG13, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 16 votes
FA: Doug Kerr and Norton Smithe, 1952
New York > Gunks > Sky Top
Warning Access Issue: While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. DetailsDrop down

Description

A wonderful route that zig-zags back and forth over an arete, with thin, facey moves and not too many of the classic Gunks jugs. I found the route rather sustained, but there is a very obvious crux section above gear. This route is not a good one for a 5.5 leader; it's devious, with questionable footholds and lots of smearing throughout. In the guidebook at 5.4 PG***, I'd give it a 5.5.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack up to #3 Camalot. Pro is PG. There is a bolted rappel anchor on the face to the left of the arete. A single 60m rope works, but is close.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bradley, my 9 year old, blasting up the climb!
[Hide Photo] Bradley, my 9 year old, blasting up the climb!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BIG Climber
Irvine, CA
  5.5 PG13
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today with Alpine Endevors and had a blast. Lots of fun moves back and forth over the arĂȘte.
Aug 7, 2012
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Just FYI: In the Gran guidebook, this climb's name is spelled "Petie's Spare Rib", and the climb next to it (in the Gran book) is just "Petie". Oct 28, 2015