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Routes in Sky Top

A Pilgrim's Progress T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crash and Burn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Cretin Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Foops T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gargoyle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grey Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Jekyll and Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lakeview T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Minnie Belle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Overhanging Overhang T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Petey's Spare Rib T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Rear Exposure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Ringwraith T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sound and Fury T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strawberry Yogurt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Crack T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Taste of Honey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Yellow Verschneidung T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Zig Zag Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: Doug Kerr and Norton Smithe, 1952
Page Views: 1,663 total, 13/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Mar 26, 2007
Admins: JSH

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While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. Details

Description

A wonderful route that zig-zags back and forth over an arete, with thin, facey moves and not too many of the classic Gunks jugs. I found the route rather sustained, but there is a very obvious crux section above gear. This route is not a good one for a 5.5 leader; it's devious, with questionable footholds and lots of smearing throughout. In the guidebook at 5.4 PG***, I'd give it a 5.5.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack up to #3 Camalot. Pro is PG. There is a new rappel anchor at the very top - but you need two ropes to rappel off (route is 120 feet). Another rap anchor is to be installed half-way down, but might not yet have been placed.

Photos

Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Just FYI: In the Gran guidebook, this climb's name is spelled "Petie's Spare Rib", and the climb next to it (in the Gran book) is just "Petie". Oct 28, 2015
BIG Climber
Irvine, CA
  5.5 PG13
BIG Climber   Irvine, CA
  5.5 PG13
Climbed this today with Alpine Endevors and had a blast. Lots of fun moves back and forth over the arĂȘte.
Aug 7, 2012