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Routes in Block Tower

Bungi Man T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Dance of Chance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Desperado T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Hurt Dance T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mister Mantle T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Queer Bait T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sex Dwarf T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wrist Never Sleeps T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1st.pitch Olaf Mitchell and Maurice Reed / 2nd pitch Olaf Mitchell and Cathern Freer
Page Views: 1,275 total, 10/month
Shared By: Olaf Mitchell on Mar 25, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The crux is about 1/3 of the way up the 1st pitch It is well protected and the fall (if you take one) is a relatively gentle pendulum. The climbing is steep and sporting! The moves are elegant with no giveaway sections. There is steep slab climbing to a mantle before each bolt. There is no way to dog any part of this pitch. You have to climb it! There is a large ledge to belay from. Pitch two is a hand/fist crack.

Location

MM is on the left side of Block Tower. Ascend an easy chimney up to a large ledge with comfortable boulders. If you only do the 1st pitch bring some gear to rap although there is probably fixed stuff? If you do the whole climb, we walked off the back and down climbed the gully between Block and Poe.

Protection

Pitch #1 is all bolts drilled on lead from natural stances. Pitch #2 is regular Platte rack (cams and nuts).

Photos

Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
 
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
 
Kevin, Thanks for your re-bolt efforts in the Spires. I am sure that this route will get more of the traffic that it deserves with bomber clips. Oct 2, 2008
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
One of the best ones up there for sure. Apr 6, 2007
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
 
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
 
For full value start this climb with Wrist Never Sleeps, then walk across a ledge to the start of the first pitch. I replaced most of the bolts on this route with bomber ASCA SS bolts. There were several 3/8" Rawl split-shaft bolts with Leeper hangers. These I only replaced the hangers. Apr 2, 2007