Peanut Gallery Crack
Avg: 3.6 from 16 votes
Routes in The Prow Area
|Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c|
|Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Henry Barber 1973|
|Page Views:||5,846 total, 45/month|
|Shared By:||lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.
If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.
LocationThis feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".
From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.