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Routes in The Prow Area

Another Pretty Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Beast Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Edge of the World S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Faux Pas Arete, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gypsy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Liquid Sky T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Peanut Gallery Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Prow, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Recompense T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Women in Love T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Henry Barber 1973
Page Views: 5,846 total, 45/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

This route sees lots of toprope traffic but relatively few lead ascents. The technical crux happens early on in the form of a wide undercling flake. This saps your energy so the rest of the route you are just trying to fight the pump. There is a great variety of climbing on Peanut Gallery Flake from wide crack to fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and back to wide, and squeeze chimney to the top.

If you like wide crack climbing this is a must do.

Location

This feature is obvious from the ground. Looking up at The Prow you will see the flake off to the right above "The Big Flush".

From the tourist overlook, find the bolt anchor on the other side of the fence. You can set up a TR off of the anchor. If you are a brave soul who wants to lead it, then rap down in to the Big Flush belay. Belay from the pine tree or the bolt anchor.

Protection

Regular rack plus some WIDE cams. Doubles in the hand sizes recommended.
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
I finally led this one today and it was an amazing experience. so good!
I placed a #6 and didn't use a #5 so it seems like that is down to preference. Have fun what ever you place! Sep 16, 2017
K. Boyko
Where the dog is
 
K. Boyko   Where the dog is
 
Brilliant climb! 5 star climbing and a must do just for the exposure.

Wide climbing isn't too bad. Easily lead with just one #5 camalot as long as you don't place it at the bottom overhang (#4 fits great here).
If airtime doesn't bother you, forgo the big stuff as the falls would be clean and on good rock. Aug 7, 2014
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
This is one of my favorite pitches of climbing on Cathedral...barndoor laybacking, sinker hand and fist jamming, and some decent offwidth action, most of it slightly overhanging...you can't go wrong! The exposure is fantastic, too. Apr 30, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I think Kenny Sims made the first lead of this route. He did have some problems with clipping in the wrong rope too! Anyway a good pump- also the arete to the right is a good tr 11B Jul 1, 2008
m-earle
USA
m-earle   USA
I belileive that the top fifteen feet or so is bigger than a #6, either run it out, or you will need a big bro or two. This route has awsome exposure. Mar 26, 2007