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Routes in Greatest Show Boulders

Caleb's Cave V3 6A
Circus World V10+ 7C+
Elegant Design V6 7A
Greatest Show on Earth V9 7C
Greatest Slab V2 5+
Pocket Problem V3 6A
Shadow Walker V8 7B
Shady Fucker V9 7C
Small Warm-up V0 4
V1 Face V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: Eric Z
Page Views: 2,491 total, 19/month
Shared By: Brian Runnells on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Start on underclings and climb straight up the center of the largest boulder. I think the problem was originally topped out by climbing straight up, however recent repeats have found that escaping left is both easier and somewhat less scary. Do what gets you psyched.

Location

Located on the main boulder and it is the most obvious line.

Protection

As the topout is very high and insecure you will need plenty of pads/spotters.
madisonchoss  
V9
Wow - thanks for the info, Eric. While hanging out at this boulder a bit this autumn I looked at the arete and wondered if any of y'all had checked it out. Sounds like you sort of split the difference between what's described here / and the arete. Just the arete seems to have a fairly obvious sit start and a heinous HP40 style topout.

Lots to do on this boulder. Classic Devil's Lake! Dec 5, 2013
Just a quick set of thoughts in regard to this boulder. In regard to the problem that I sent,.. it is my sense, that it is slightly to the right of the described problem. As I recall ( Will see if I can locate some old slides to jostle the memory banks in a definitive way ), it utilized the right arete of the face at a certain point. So in a nutshell,... the center problem was sent by someone else. Though,... mostly an exercise in semantics,... clarity, if nothing else,.. can be informing..... This stated,... my general feeling ( with hindsight as a helpful partner ), is that I should have resisted the temptation to clean the top as extensively as I did. Sometimes,... our passions can blind us to the grander subtleties of the Earth. Happy trails.... Dec 4, 2013
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
This thing still untouched for 2011? It didn't even look that dirty when I saw it in early June. Aug 26, 2011
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Time to go scrub this thing down. In the words of EZ "Get on it!" Sep 12, 2010
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Aaron came real close to sending yesterday...Next time for sure Mar 29, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Sick video, thanks for posting it up. Nice job. I see Eric Z has joined and posted up some photos, so maybe he can comment on the line he took, although leaving something to the imagination has value as well IMO. I am sure both lines are damn hard, even if the direct would be somewhat contrived.

Oh and I agree about the split grades, though I think in some cases it's useful to say that something would be easier if you were tall, or whatever. Not that I am any type of expert heh. Mar 23, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
p.s. you made the thing look like piss. Mar 23, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
nicoli,

thank you for taking video. everyone should do so from now on for everything. that is a new rule.

do you have any intention on trying the straight up version?

I vote for your jug haul ending to be called 'the lamest show on earth'

that is all.
love.
sweaty Mar 23, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
So now it's a V8+?

I'm confused. Mar 22, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Sure it is ok to use the "-" and "+", but I was making the point that maybe it is a bit too rampant on the WI site. You guys are pulling really hard out there. You should give yourself the credit you deserve. Upgrades for everything! Mar 22, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Good points Jay and Sweaty. The spectrum can be huge for one grade. I figured since MP lists + and - it was ok to use them. But I agree, I'm not a fan. MP should just do away with it. Mar 22, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
thats true Jay. By saying V7 you are saying it is in the grade of 7 which has a spectrum in itself. I suppose the + and - is just kind of help spell it out to where exactly it falls in the spectrum.

Nicoli, thanks for the work you guys did. looks like fun and im psyched to get on it. is that arete a project? did you try it? Mar 22, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
What's with all the V grades on the WI site with either "+" or "-" attached to them? Is the V scale not specific enough? Why not just call this V9? Or a V10? Be bold; take a stance.

Of all the rating scales, I think the V scale is the most subject to variables (such as height, reach, strength, etc.), so that splitting hairs beyond the specific number is meaningless. Mar 22, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
sweet guys! great job nicoli! Any thought on the grade? Mar 22, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
Steve and Nic gave this rig a good cleaning and now she is in prime form. Nic sent very quickly and Steve and I played on it but the sends will have to wait for another day. Mar 21, 2010
Negative, not clean. Pick a day and I can meet you there with a crew. Oct 25, 2009
Tom Petraitis
Evanston, IL
Tom Petraitis   Evanston, IL
I somehow smelled this semi-highball from the East Bluff trail and found some cats watching a guy try the low moves. I joined in and have been back a few times. The first move will test your micro-pinch strength on quartzite pebbles in the sandstone. If you get past there you're likely to peel off soon (which is probably for the best!). A few more micro-pebble pinches get you into the middle. One can only do these micro-pinches for a while before your hands can take no more. The middle moves get more interesting and are all about the sandstone huecos. The upper moves appear to be there but are really sketchy! I broke out the short rope and gave them a try. Project City.

The photo does not convey the 15 degree overhang. Aug 21, 2009
How did the rock seem? May 20, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
Remo   Madison, WI
I tried the opening moves, and it seems doable. But man, this thing is soooo dirty, and the top-out is a carpet of moss. Needs a lot of cleaning. I think this is my new found love project, beautiful boulder! May 19, 2009
Did you get on it remo?? May 19, 2009
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
Nice work on posting this Remo. The problem does look sick! I wants to climbs it! May 19, 2009