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Routes in Monolith Upper Ridge West Side

Big Easy V0 4
Big Time V2+ 5+ R
Cherry Underneath V9 7C PG13
Drunk and Disorderly V4 6B R
Espionage V8 7B
Gargoyle, The V4 6B PG13
Lumberjack V1-2 5
Manhattan V1-2 5
Perfect Medium V8 7B
Perfect Medium Right V9 7C PG13
Pink T-shirts and Berry Skoal V2 5+
Sex & Chocolate V7 7A+
Sex and Chocolate with a Cherry on Top (aka S&C Direct) V8 7B PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Eric Zschiesche
Page Views: 4,472 total, 34/month
Shared By: Brian Runnells on Mar 24, 2007
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Start right hand on a the crimp on the face, left hand on the good hold on the arete. Move onto the arete and make a long move to the slopey jug. Exit left or right from here, or continue to the top for the direct finish if you're into that sort of thing. This is the style of problem where there is a fine line between it feeling impossible and impossibly easy...

With the completion of the direct finish, this is listed as a separate problem more for historical purposes than anything else...

Location

If you are facing the Venus rising boulder, continue on hiking trail for 50 feet and go right towards the lake past easy problems on the right. Angle around the backside of these boulders you pass and go down the hill hugging the cliff line on your right. Sex & Chocolate should be on your right.

Protection

Landing is pretty benign.
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
Eric Zschiesche on the FA, and he was fired up on the line, the send, and the Oldstyles we were putting down as well... I don't remember them well, but I know they were the good old days... Summer of 99. Aug 22, 2011
Tony Brengosz
  V5-6
Tony Brengosz  
  V5-6
The right exit is much scarier than the left exit. May 2, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
Wow Remo, nicely done!!! Mar 21, 2010
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Remo sent the direct today. Free no rope. Epic! Mar 21, 2010
Paul Dieterle
Pasadena, CA
Paul Dieterle   Pasadena, CA
YEAH REMO!!! Mar 18, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
wow. ballsy. glad you're ok man! Mar 18, 2010
DAMN Remo! That's a big fall... Mar 18, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
Tried the direct today and fell at the lip. Big, big fall, not fun. Then tried on TR, pumped out and fell at lip. Next time, so frustrated! Mar 18, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
silly... 2 and a half pads might as well be 2 and a half rocks from up there. lol. yikes Mar 17, 2010
No shit Remo! Mar 17, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
Committed to the direct today ground up. Stuck the crux on S&C, traversed right and started going up. Got spooked out when I looked down and noticed how far the ground was and how small Vince looked. 2 1/2 pads is not enough for a landing zone. The direct is for real, bring all the pads! Mar 16, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
So we went up and cleaned off the upper part of S&C but failed to send. Both sides of the arete are in play, but the moves are tricky and high off the deck. Bring the spotters and all the pads you can round up. Nov 21, 2009
Nice Remo! This thing is getting worked this year!! Nov 18, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
If you enjoy bouldering at the Lake, than this problem is a must try- great problem! I was going to go for the direct, but no spotter and a dirty head-wall did not spark confidence. A little bit of cleaning and I think the line will go. Nov 18, 2009
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Nice work! You'll have to share the beta on Saturday so Seth and I can embarrass ourselves Oct 27, 2009
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
Gabe and Aaron had great beta. This thing always felt weird and today no problem. Oct 27, 2009
Big credit due to both Gabe and Aaron for sending this rig this past Saturday!! Nice work!! Oct 26, 2009
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
 
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
 
Best, Hardest problem I ever did at The Lake. Brought my 70 year old parents there one year and did it for them. One of the most beautiful little areas in the park. Always feels special to be there. Jul 11, 2009
I've been saying the same thing for years rhoads. Direct looks doable. there are holds. we should throw a rope over it someday. Jul 3, 2009
Got on this thing to day, seemed nice but the friction was no good in the mild temps. A colder day would be much better.
Traverse right? I say "Sex and Chocolate Direct". I guess I'll have to do the bottom first though, eh? Jul 2, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V7
Remo   Madison, WI
  V7
The dyno move is so far. I finally made a couple good goes, but man that is a big move. Jun 12, 2009
Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI
Paul Campbell   Waukesha, WI
I'm throwing some star ratings onto the harder boulder problems because they wouldn't show up in the "Best Routes for You in this area" without a quality rating. Jan 21, 2009