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Winter Heat
5.11b,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 160
votes
FA: Paul Crawford, Jay Smith, Rich Harrison, Paul Van Betten 1983
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (01) Calico Basin
> Kraft Mtn Area
> Winter Heat Wall
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
Fantastic route up beautiful chocolate colored rock. Follow the thin seam up the center of the wall to a large scoop. Place your pro fast to avoid burning out. Super fun and well worth a visit. Good protection for the entire length of the route, but place it when you can.
Location
The center most seam/crack on the Winter Heat Wall.
Protection
Standard rack to 1". Especially wires. Also cams to 4" for the pockets down low to feel super comfortable.
![Mike Holland on one of the most beautiful single pitches in Red Rock]()
[Hide Photo] Mike Holland on one of the most beautiful single pitches in Red Rock
![with a few stemming tricks, you can get a no hands rest just before the crux]()
[Hide Photo] with a few stemming tricks, you can get a no hands rest just before the crux
![getting something good in before the traverse.]()
[Hide Photo] getting something good in before the traverse.
![Awesome pitch! I felt that the lower crux although maybe easier did make me more nervous.]()
[Hide Photo] Awesome pitch! I felt that the lower crux although maybe easier did make me more nervous.
![Me contemplating the next few moves which I found to be the crux of the climb. Awesome climb!! Maybe next time I will get up the gumption to lead it.]()
[Hide Photo] Me contemplating the next few moves which I found to be the crux of the climb. Awesome climb!! Maybe next time I will get up the gumption to lead it.
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Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Colorado
denver, co
josh Apr 5, 2010
Montana
Regardless of any minutia of protection, this isn't a dangerous route and it's for sure pretty classic. Climb and enjoy. Jan 16, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
When I do this again I will only take a bunch of stoppers from rp's to about bd #9 and a single #1.
This wall could probably benefit from some anchor replacement in the future. I'm not sure if that is original hardware up there or not, but it could be better. Especially given the apparent popularity of the wall. May 19, 2013
Idaho
Arlington, MA
ideal gear beta
nuts and offset nuts (small silver, purple and large yellow BD nuts and brass offset are what I used). TCUs
a stuck offset protected the upper crux. i fell on it the first time I tried it and it is super solid. a nut tool and a hammer could get it out.
#2 in horizontal
#3 and 0.75 for beginning which is on really easy terrain so no necessarily needed. all in horizontals Nov 29, 2017
San Francisco, CA
Mammoth Lakes
Also, the climb is so sick. Not a bad one to have a grudge match with. Feb 18, 2020
Denver, CO