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Routes in Winter Heat Wall

Could'nt be Schmooter T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
High Class Ho T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hole in the Pants T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Judy's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nuttin Could be Finer T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Reign of Swain, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seasonal Controversies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Striptease T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Winter Heat T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Paul Crawford, Jay Smith, Rich Harrison, Paul Van Betten 1983
Page Views: 5,479 total · 41/month
Shared By: Chad Kuhlman on Mar 22, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Fantastic route up beautiful chocolate colored rock. Follow the thin seam up the center of the wall to a large scoop. Place your pro fast to avoid burning out. Super fun and well worth a visit. Good protection for the entire length of the route, but place it when you can.

Location

The center most seam/crack on the Winter Heat Wall.

Protection

Standard rack to 1". Especially wires. Also cams to 4" for the pockets down low to feel super comfortable.

Photos

meo
 
meo  
 
The middle of the route is a bit sparse on good pro. Where it starts to get thin could be better protected with set of ballnutz or you need a good set of B--ls Apr 29, 2007
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Found plenty of soild gear from good stances.... A few small nuts, a few med nuts, and a grey alien Sep 18, 2009
E IV
 
E IV  
 
Don't bother protecting the first 20 feet of 5.8 huecos. The first crux (5.11a) is thin and protects well with 2 brass nuts down low and small/medium nuts. The upper crux (11b) is very well protected with small/med cam and small/med nuts. It looks a lot worse from the ground than it is. Oct 18, 2009
Jeff G.
Fort Collins
  5.11b/c
Jeff G.   Fort Collins
  5.11b/c
This is a great trad testpiece. One of the better single pitch routes I have done in Red Rocks. Nov 3, 2009
J. Thompson
denver, co
  5.11b
J. Thompson   denver, co
  5.11b
I found a perfect #2 camalot in a pocket early on. The climbing around this cam is easy (compared to the rest of the route). However I thought this cam was key to avoid zippering the small nuts placed on the first 3/4 of this route.

josh Apr 5, 2010
W.S.
Montana
  5.11b
W.S.   Montana
  5.11b
I got maybe four small nuts and two small cams in on this route. The gear wasn't horrible, just small. Beautiful climbing up good rock. Apr 2, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11
Amazing piece of rock. A couple #2s are nice to have- especially the first one in the hueco. Ballnutz also come in handy along the way, as well as patience and a good head for intricate gear placements. Oct 10, 2011
I got two nuts...one for each of ya!

Regardless of any minutia of protection, this isn't a dangerous route and it's for sure pretty classic. Climb and enjoy. Jan 16, 2012
Nate Farr
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
Nate Farr   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11
I was really bummed with the guidebook recommendation of gear to 1.25". I definitely wanted a #1 at about halfway, instead of the nest of rp's I ended up placing. All-in-all the gear is good its just fiddly and sporadic. You can place it above your head anywhere the climbing approaches "hard."

When I do this again I will only take a bunch of stoppers from rp's to about bd #9 and a single #1.

This wall could probably benefit from some anchor replacement in the future. I'm not sure if that is original hardware up there or not, but it could be better. Especially given the apparent popularity of the wall. May 19, 2013
JF1
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
On 10/16/13 thanks to a donation from the ASCA the anchor was replaced on this route using SS 1/2" by 3 1/2" 5 pieces and double ring hangers. Oct 17, 2013
Thanks ASCA! Great new anchor. Oct 17, 2013
Michael Holland
Teton Village, WY
Michael Holland   Teton Village, WY
Lost a red bd cs cam around winter heat wall a few days ago (april 30th)... It has a matching red nutrino carabiner, and both are taped with a bluish/purplish tie-die tape.

Please Please Please if you come across it, PM or call me: 970 846 0953


Thanks! Mike May 2, 2014
AJ
 
AJ  
 
Finally climbed this classic and I agree with the general theme here. Thanks everyone for the thoughtful comments. It's a spooky onsight and you won't be able to toprope your way up it, but there's good gear and stances where you need them. I'd recommend RPs and a bit of patience getting them arranged. I would not give it an R rating, but I would recommend you be pretty solid at the grade. The rock quality is impeccable. Beautiful climb. Apr 24, 2015
what a wonderful climb. so glad it wasnt bolted.

ideal gear beta
nuts and offset nuts (small silver, purple and large yellow BD nuts and brass offset are what I used). TCUs
a stuck offset protected the upper crux. i fell on it the first time I tried it and it is super solid. a nut tool and a hammer could get it out.
#2 in horizontal

#3 and 0.75 for beginning which is on really easy terrain so no necessarily needed. all in horizontals Nov 29, 2017
artem Vasilyev
  5.11b/c
artem Vasilyev  
  5.11b/c
Beautiful route and bomber gear. Loved it. Mar 15, 2018

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