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Routes in War Wall

Dripping Alien Wax T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
Emigration Escape T A1
Type: Trad, Sport, Aid, 50 ft
FA: James Garrett, 20 March 2007
Page Views: 921 total, 7/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

The rock is probably similar to the rock at Parleys, but filthy dirty! This seemed dirtier than the Fisher Towers and maybe even looser. DAW is east facing right of an obvious corner. Consider a rabies vaccine before visiting this aid/free crack climb....yes, I bolted right next to a crack. If one invests a few months into sanitizing this wall, which I dubbed the WAR WALL (or perhaps antiwar wall?)incidentally,....it might even go free. But if you feel war brings liberation, you will do war with this wall, I assure you of that. It feels taller and steeper than it looks.
Access probably not a problem as the apartments are maybe 100 feet away, but discretion is always the best approach. Just remember, I tried to warn you.

Location

45 seconds from the Emigration Canyon Road. This crag is hidden and even hard to see right off Emigration Canyon Road on the south side of the road. If interested in dirty choss, you will find it just beneath and up canyon from a tall apartment complex near the mouth of the canyon. You can barely see it during the winter months without leaves on the trees. Summer provides invisibility.

Protection

Probably the first climb to be led here and installed from the ground. A previous visitor installed chains on the north facing and tallest part of the north facing wall, but I can't imagine anyone having led these climbs. Didn't witness much sign of passage. We did TR to the existng chains. They no doubt opted out of getting more involved. If anyone has TRed or named or has any other insight into the history here, I'd love to listen to the tales of epic grunge climbing!
5 bolts (some glue in and comfortingly bomber) and gear in the nearby crack were used to ascend this grunge climbers wet dream. I had a blast. 3 bolt belay/rappel anchor.

Photos

was the best, worst dirtiest climbing i have done. feels like you just left the beach after being buried in the sand. The n. facing wall hold some pretty fun aid lines also. Very dirty as usual. Aug 30, 2009
steve edwards
SLC, UT
steve edwards   SLC, UT
Probably 11a or b but it's really hard to say because it's more like an aid climb in that you're trying to not pull anything off that will kill your belayer. Decent climbing low. The top is atrocious. Dirty dosen't begin to describe it. Aug 6, 2008