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Routes in Castle Rock - Black Tower Buttress

Headwall Center T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headwall Left TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Headwall Right T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lower Black Tower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, FL: Brad Singer
Page Views: 822 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

From anchors atop the buttress climb right a few feet to a bolt and then head straight up into a sweet, thin crack which leads to anchors at the top of the face. You may be able to link the approach pitch and this route into one longer pitch, but rope drag may be an issue; if considering this Crossbow is probably the better choice. Return to the ground in two short raps.

Location

This route starts from the ledge atop the Black Tower Buttress and, as the name indicates, climbs the center of the headwall above. Approach via Crossbow on the left side of the buttress or Black Tower Crack which is on the right side of the butress facing east.

Protection

One bolt, gear to 1.5 inches, 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Killer fingers with great position - easy to link this with Crossbow for a nice long pitch. Jul 22, 2012
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Climbed this pitch with an approach as described here. I do not remember the bolt being there when I first did this climb back in the 90's. Nov 5, 2007