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Routes in Castle Rock - East Face

Black Tower Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Damsel in Distress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy As Your Best Friends Sister T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hard As Your Husband T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trebuchet T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Brad Singer & Dave LePere, October 2001
Page Views: 1,759 total, 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb to the top of a block and make a few easy moves to reach the first bolt then head up the slab veering slightly right to the base of a headwall. Pull over a steep section on hollow jugs and wander up the highly featured slabby face to anchors on a ledge.

Location

20' left of Black Tower Crack at a slabby portion of rock.

Protection

7 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (shared with Black Tower Crack)
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
The variation to the left sounds like "Damsel in Distress" (5.9). Oct 9, 2012
Does anyone know anything about the variation to the left of this route? Also a bolted line with a truly awkwatd start. An little spicier than a 5.5 I'd say. Sep 17, 2012
Mary Moser
Joshua Tree, CA
Mary Moser   Joshua Tree, CA
I agree with the comment about the 3rd bolt placement. I slung a horn above it just as a back-up. This is a very fun route with some good exposure for its grade. Jul 23, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.6
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.6
A good intro for someone just getting into leading - but be sure to know how to safely set up a rappel. The third bolt is a tad goofy in its placement, as it acts like a cantilever which makes it a bit of a stress riser if it's loaded. May 15, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
5.6
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
5.6
Not certain what BGraham's issue was with "Easy As Your Sister's Best Friend," but we thought this was a very clean, enjoyable route with lots of interesting features. The climb begins with an easy, well protected slab to a steep and thought provoking bulge and finishes with another fun and easy slab to the anchors. Yes, the nut on the left anchor bolt is loose, but a simple tweak with a small wrench solved that issue. Great area, hadn't climbed here in 26 years, but the new routes were appreciated. Sep 28, 2009