Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Keith Reynolds, Courtney Scales, Alan Stephenson, Mack haster, John Weinberg
Page Views: 1,980 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 21, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route climbs the crack and dihedral that goes up from the Gemini Bridges Road. Its the northwest face. For some reason this route gets no stars in Bjornstads DRII... I belive it deserves at least a couple as the climbing is interesting. The rock on the last pitch is unique... pockets and edges.
P1. Climb a slab to a pod, then follow a tight crack, mostly fingers, for about 100 feet to a ledge and two bolts. 5.10 with some dirty slab moves up high. Mostly thin gear and hands
P2. Go up through the wide crack in the bulge using fingers, hands, and the odd chimney move... it looks wider than it climbs. The crack lessens in angle, then goes right to a ledge with some funky face moves. Mostly hands size pieces. 5.10+
P3. You might want to break this short pitch into two as it circles the Birds head. Go up on good horizontals to a bolt. Make some face moves on decent rock to a ledge, then follow that right to the back of the birds head. Its on this ledge that you might want set up a belay because of rope drag. You will need wide stuff. Follow the ledge around to the back of the head and climb (little spicey) on pockets and edges to the summit. Get gear in the pockets (it might hold). The pitch is 5.10-.
Rap from the summit to the top of 2, then from there to the ground with 2 60's. The summit anchor leaves a bit to be desired. A nice 1/2 inch bolt and some chain would do wonders for it (I can provide this to you).

Location

On the Gemini Bridges Road where it goes from the Little Valley to Arths Pasture. The hike is not very demanding... I used my bumper as my bottom anchor.

Protection

Triples from small alien to hand size, then doubles for fist, then a few large pieces for the top and the odd pod (and bulge). You need slings and extra biners, too.

Photos