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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Keith Reynolds, Courtney Scales, Alan Stephenson, Mack haster, John Weinberg |
| Page Views: | 2,459 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route climbs the crack and dihedral that goes up from the Gemini Bridges Road. Its the northwest face. For some reason this route gets no stars in Bjornstads DRII... I belive it deserves at least a couple as the climbing is interesting. The rock on the last pitch is unique... pockets and edges.
P1. Climb a slab to a pod, then follow a tight crack, mostly fingers, for about 100 feet to a ledge and two bolts. 5.10 with some dirty slab moves up high. Mostly thin gear and hands
P2. Go up through the wide crack in the bulge using fingers, hands, and the odd chimney move... it looks wider than it climbs. The crack lessens in angle, then goes right to a ledge with some funky face moves. Mostly hands size pieces. 5.10+
P3. You might want to break this short pitch into two as it circles the Birds head. Go up on good horizontals to a bolt. Make some face moves on decent rock to a ledge, then follow that right to the back of the birds head. Its on this ledge that you might want set up a belay because of rope drag. You will need wide stuff. Follow the ledge around to the back of the head and climb (little spicey) on pockets and edges to the summit. Get gear in the pockets (it might hold). The pitch is 5.10-.
Rap from the summit to the top of 2, then from there to the ground with 2 60's. The summit anchor leaves a bit to be desired. A nice 1/2 inch bolt and some chain would do wonders for it (I can provide this to you).
P1. Climb a slab to a pod, then follow a tight crack, mostly fingers, for about 100 feet to a ledge and two bolts. 5.10 with some dirty slab moves up high. Mostly thin gear and hands
P2. Go up through the wide crack in the bulge using fingers, hands, and the odd chimney move... it looks wider than it climbs. The crack lessens in angle, then goes right to a ledge with some funky face moves. Mostly hands size pieces. 5.10+
P3. You might want to break this short pitch into two as it circles the Birds head. Go up on good horizontals to a bolt. Make some face moves on decent rock to a ledge, then follow that right to the back of the birds head. Its on this ledge that you might want set up a belay because of rope drag. You will need wide stuff. Follow the ledge around to the back of the head and climb (little spicey) on pockets and edges to the summit. Get gear in the pockets (it might hold). The pitch is 5.10-.
Rap from the summit to the top of 2, then from there to the ground with 2 60's. The summit anchor leaves a bit to be desired. A nice 1/2 inch bolt and some chain would do wonders for it (I can provide this to you).
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